| A
Little
Gutter History |
|
What changed the trend
to have gutters as a standard on houses?
Gutters are still a rare thing to see
on houses in most of the country. It is only here and places near the
coast that gutters are a required building code. In much of the country, building codes still do not
require gutters in housing construction, since there is not as much heavy rainfall as we have here near
the Coast. As close
as Eastern Oregon this is the case, where they only get a few inches of
rain a year. So if you look around in those areas,
you will see that most homes do not have gutters.
Some houses may even have a short 10 foot gutter just over the
doorway that the home owner bought at a hardware store. They often
would not bother to mount a downspout, or put on any endcaps.
The
water simply runs out on either side to splatters to the ground.
Many of the older homes built in the before the
1940’s here in the Portland Metro area were built without the benefit of
gutters, since there were no building codes requiring them yet. Besides, they did not have any good
cost efficient solutions for rain
management at the time. The early gutter concepts like copper sheet metal and
cored out cedar gutters were very expensive, so only the fancier houses
had them. Sealing the seams, ends, corners, and outlets were a trial, so few houses had
gutters.
Also, Concrete foundations were still a relatively new concept, so the damage from excessive
ground erosion was pretty much unknown by most people. It is something
that does not normally occur over the course of a couple years, but over
a few decades. But when this damage does occur, it is such a costly and
invasive repair that the house is rendered nearly worthless. |
| Why
are Gutters Needed ? |
| Why
must we have gutters on our house?
Not having rain water
drip off the roof and onto your head as you leave the house is a nice
advantage of having gutters on your house, but it is not the reason that
our building code enforcement in this area requires gutters on all
houses and garages. It is not even because of flooding basements. as
stated above, it is the result of seeing thousands of houses with
cracked and damaged foundations, due to ground erosion and the many tons
of pressure of the house down on the foundation. Even sinking just a few
inches is devastating to a houses value and livability, and can make it
very dangerous to live in. Electrical fires and broken pipes from this
sort of settling. The evidence it quite clear.

As you can see here, when the foundation is compromised, the
plumbing, sewer, and electricity needs to be disconnected. The house then
needs to be separated from it's foundation and jacked up off of the
foundation, in order to break out the old concrete, to set up the forms, to
pour a whole new foundation. Then to set the house back down onto the new
foundation, once it has cured for a month. Then to reconnect all the wiring
and plumbing needed. This can take up to a year to do in some cases, and
cost from $30k to $150k to do this on an average size house.
Keep in mind that without a rain sewer system to carefully
carry the rain water away from the foundation and into a dry well or out to
the city streets, gutters are not only pointless, but will do more harm than
good. Picture in your mind; having no gutters on your house and letting the
rain dribble evenly across the roof edge. That is better than dumping huge
amounts of collected water in one spot on the ground near the foundation.

This is another house here in Milwaukie Oregon that required
some major foundation replacement. They have spent a great deal of effort to
publish 4 web pages with about 50 photos on each page detailing the
recreation of their basement. Click on the photo above to see what they had
to endure to fix their problems and how long it took.
The City of Portland has been asking home owners to
disconnect their downspouts from their underground rain sewer pipes and have
this water dump on the ground. This is in conflict with the building codes,
and will result in the damage to thousands of houses here in the city. If
you are one of these home owners and you have a working rain sewer system, I
implore you to reconnect as soon as possible! They may have made it seem
like a requirement to disconnect, but it is strictly voluntary.
If your rain sewer system is not functioning correctly, you
should have it fixed. It is very important! We have seen many older houses
around the area that have gutters installed, but there was never any rain
sewer system installed? the downspouts just bleed gallons of rain water out
onto the ground just inches away from the foundation. This is a tragedy just
waiting to happen, if it is not already too late. Again, the primary reason for gutters to manage the rain water
from the roof of a house is to prevent ground erosion that causes
foundation problems. If you have a basement, that is even more of an
issue, and you may have suffered some flooding of your basement.
It was not until
the governments (not so long ago) established building codes and
it's enforcement to uphold these codes, that we had it as a standard in
housing construction in this area. Due to our heavy rains in this
area over the years, many foundations had fallen to ruin. As well as a weaker foundation with no steel re-bar
reinforcement, crumbling
apart from a poor cement and river bed sandstone mixed with muddy river
water.
|
| Hidden
Box-Gutters |
| What
were some of the early gutter concepts? Back in
the early 1900s some of the larger houses in the area were built with an
elaborate eave with a soffit, fascia, and wood molding on the outer
edge. They had to custom form a steel or copper gutter in sheet metal to fit
in the wood channel. Some problems with this was having separations
every 10 feet that had to be soldered together. They
would have to use solder, since they did not have the good silicone
composite caulks like we have
today. They would have to solder them together after they were up there on the house
using an open flame torch, which was dangerous right there against the wood of the
structure. They probably burned down a few houses doing this, like
the huge fire they had in the West Hills recently from plumbers soldering
water pipes together.
The expansion and contraction due to temperature changes
are different than the wood structure, so the seams would be ripped apart
and leak. This expansion and contraction would also cause them to
buckle and pull loose. Even if the seams were not pulled open, the
sheet metal would fatigue over time and develop cracks if it was a long
run of gutter. When this happened, the leaks would cause a
great deal of dry-rot in the wood work under it, causing a great deal of
damage, so it is not done much
any more these days. The concept of continuous external gutters was developed, so any
clogged and over flowing gutters or leaks would not cause such expensive
damage to the structure.
We had removed 3 layers of custom steel gutters on this
house below house. Each layer was placed over the rusty gutter below
it, and that top layer had rusted through as well. This house was only
about 50 years old. We scrapped the built-in gutter system and mounted a
gutter on the outside of the stucco walls, since the old gutter was leaking
inside the walls and causing a great deal of damage inside the house.
 
We were called back a couple years later to replace the
roofing. We did a t layer tear-off, new plywood covering the old gutters
properly, and new 40 year roofing shingles. These photos were taken
about 10 years later.
Again in the 50s and 60s they built a lot of cheap flat
roof homes with a tall fascia board that was higher than the edge of the
roof. Then they simply nailed in a roll of flashing sheet metal to
the top edge of that fascia board, and pressed it into the end of the
roof, making a shallow gutter, and just slopping hot tar over the roof.
This gutter concept was also a horrible idea, and many of these houses
needed to have the fascia board cut down to be flush with the roof end,
and an external gutter mounted on it.
Here is an example of one house we worked on back in 1994
and again to complete the job over 10 years later. Click on the photo
below to see more details of that work.

|
| Old Steel
Sectional
Gutters |
| How
were the early external gutters made?
After it became a matter of building code in this area
to have gutters on houses to save them from
ground erosion, to try and make it cost effective they
were using steel sheet metal for gutters, instead of copper, since
aluminum was still not a reality yet. But these steel gutters were not lasting
very long. Later they developed a galvanizing for steel to make it
last longer. They were able to make them last 10 to 20 years,
depending how clean they were kept.
They did not have complex sheet metal roll forming
machines to generate continuous gutters like we have today. Sheet metal craftsmen would
have to carefully bend 10 foot strips of
metal into the wood molding shape for the outer face of the gutters, to
replace the old wood moldings. Some cheaper gutters would only have
a plain flat face to them, being the first fascia gutters, just not as
tall.
Again, they would have to use solder, since they did not
have the good caulks like we do today. Still, the inherent danger of the
open flame was a problem, but there was no other solution. They had to make
gutters that could be mounted outside the wood
structure so when it leaked, it was much less destructive.
They
first made a small gutter with a very narrow bottom, to mimic the old wood roof
edge molding. It was later abandoned
due to it’s lack of function, since it filled with debris too quickly,
and was too hard to get your hand in it to clean them out. This
larger gutter worked OK, but was still expensive since it was so labor
intensive, and did not last long.
|
| The OG Wood
Molding Shaped Gutters |
Why
were the K-5 gutters developed?
Back when homes were built with some style, even if they had no
gutters. They had fascia boards, soffits, and some wood
molding along the roof edges. This molding is
the only reason for the shape of the K-5 style gutter.
They used long nails with thin rolled sheet metal tubes called
ferrules, to support the gutter and resist ladder pressure.
To mount these gutters right, the installer is to remove the
old and often rotten wood molding. The gutter then replaces that wood molding. This in keeping with the style of the
house, as though it was meant to be like that from the beginning.
This house to the right had some quarter round gutters on
it that were rusty. The client thought to keep it historical he needed
to find a contractor who could make the same sort of gutter. That gutter
profile was no longer available, and we explained to him that looking at the
details of his house, it shows that a wood molding gutter would be much more
proper anyway, since he had that same shaped wood molding there on the
rake-edge of the roof (as seen in the photo).
It is sad to say, but due to the cost and hard work it
takes to do it the right
way, it is very rare to see it done right. They developed a short
cut by
installing gutters with straps that wrapped around the gutter, and were
then nailed on top of the roofing, which goes against all concepts of
proper roofing; to hide all the fasteners from the weather. We have
more details about this problem in the next section here, and a few web
pages detailing what we do to properly mount gutters on houses that were
originally designed not to have gutters.
 
|
| Old
Half-Round
Gutters |
| What
about the classic half-round gutters?
The half round gutter
configuration was one of the first designs for the continuous gutter
roll-forming
machines, since the early machines were not very complex, and malleable
pre-painted alloys that would not crack when bent in a 90 degree angle, like we have
today. A rain-gutter is not something that is suppose to be so apparent on
your house, like the external plumbing that it is. This first
generation continuous gutter was much like seeing a
monster in a movie with an ecto-skeleton.
 
In much of the country, gutters
are not a requirement of the local building codes, so most houses do not even have
gutters pre-installed as a standard feature. Here in the NW, we get so
much rain that the evidence of weakened and damaged foundation in just a couple decades
inspired this to be a mandatory feature on houses.
The half round gutter did not work very well, since it
is about half as deep as the K-5 gutter we install, so the slightest
leveling problem or debris in the gutter would cause it to over
flow. Because they have no flat back to them, the supports for them
have to be under the gutter to hold it up, instead of using the hidden
inside the gutter. Again, the look of an ecto-skeleton like the
artist Giger might do, as in the movie 'Alien'. They also are not
gutters that can support the weight of a ladder leaning against them, so
they will get crushed and bent out of shape easily, so cleaning of the
gutters is a trial, let alone any other kind of roof
maintenance.
When these gutters were installed using center straps
that are nailed on the roofing, that was even worse for all these
issues. They were very difficult
to install or level. The roof half way over lapped the gutter, and
would shoot over the gutter in a heavy downpour. They were quick to get
clogged and soon failed to manage the water. Since the roof covers half the
gutter they were very difficult
to get your hand in it to clean them out.
Again, you could not lean a ladder against them to access the roof. They
had a high tendency to detach and fall down before long, as the metal
straps can only take so much bending back and forth from the wind and
other vibrations, so these straps would fatigue and crack. We have
seen it many a time. We have never seen a good application for using
straps to hang gutters with.
Some old houses were originally built with no gutters,
and would have this OG type of wood molding at the roof's edge to finish
it off, just like the shape of the gutters we install. Often
this wood molding is worn and rotten for all the years of rain dripping
off it. We would go out of our way to build out the roof edge to
form a structure to mount our flat back gutter to using the hidden hangers
and wood screws (see our Fascia
Fabrication web page for examples).
Latter they finally developed
the K-5 gutter machine, that makes a gutter that resemble the classic wood
molding that houses were enhanced with. It is amusing that shortly
after that, they did away with ornamenting new homes with such things as wood molding
that was contoured like the K-5 gutters, to modernize the fashion of
housing. Truthfully, it was little more than ways to cut corners and
save money on construction. Much like the 'Emperor's New Clothes'
story, and
the people bought it hook line and sinker.
They also decided that it was passé to have fascia boards covering the rafter tail, which meant they
had to also do away with the soffit, or ceiling for the exterior areas of
a house. So now we are staring up at the crude roof joists extending from
the siding, and the plywood roof deck that is riddled with roofing nails.
It is a wonderful area now for spider webs and wasp nests.
|
| K-4"
Gutters |
| What
happed to the old K-4 gutters we used to see?
With the development of more complex sheet
metal roll- forming machines, they wanted to make gutters as inconspicuous
as possible, so there was the K-4 wood molding shaped
gutter. It did looked good and inconspicuous, but it is obsolete now,
since it was too hard to get your hand in it to clean it out. The
1/2" outer lip and with any roof shingle over-hang, there was only
about two and a half inches of opening on the top. They also were
very quick to fill up with debris and would fail to manage the rain water. |
| Larger
Gutters Than 5" |
| What
about larger gutters than the K-5" gutter? Is bigger better?
So the K-5 gutter machine was produced, and made the
standard. They also make larger gutter machines in a 6",
7" and even an 8" pattern, but they take a much wider coil of
sheet metal, driving up the cost, and look very conspicuously large on a
house. They are mainly used for large industrial applications that
have huge roofs. There are not many gutter contractors who have this
type of machine, since there is so little call for it.
Many times it is not produced from one of these larger
continuous gutter machines at all. Instead, these contractors will
make those gutters on a long sheet metal bending machine, bending one edge
at a time. The longest machine in this area is only 30' long, and
since it is not a portable machine, transportation is an issue. Most
of these industrial buildings will be over 150' long, so that means there
will be 5 or more seams to leak in that distance. Sadly again is
that even though this process is very costly, they will most often use
steel sheet metal for these large gutters that will rust though the bottom
in less than a couple decades.
Larger gutters, even for industrial applications is not
nearly as relevant as the size of the outlets and the number of downspouts
a gutter system has. If the larger gutters will hold more water is
only relevant in that when the outlets clog up and the gutter fails, it
will last 5 minutes in a heavy downpour instead of only 3 minutes, before
it fills up and begins to overflow. It is much more important that
the gutter continue to drain and function as they should.
Some innovative ideas were to install a funnel right
into the bottom of the gutter at the outlet. The funnels are
normally used to join 2 downspouts into one. This allows for a much
larger opening for the outlet. Once the rain water is in a dead
fall, there is little need for a larger downspout. It is better to
place a strainer near the ground level to capture any moss and debris that
may be in the gutters, relieving any need to get up there on the roof to
clear out the clogged gutter.
It is also beneficial to at least make sure that the
gutters are level, if not installed with a good grade down towards the
outlets. That is where our focus is with gutter system design and
installation, instead of larger gutters as more of a profitable sale, and
a fail-safe to avoid warranty issue within the one year warranty that
gutter contractors are required to have.
|
| The First
Fascia
Gutters |
| What
about fascia gutters?
At
first the fascia gutter was no deeper than the K-5 gutter. When they
made the plain square gutter or the 'fascia' roll-forming continuous
gutter machine, it was made as just a cheaper machine that required fewer and less complicated
rollers to form these gutters. The only reason was to cut corners
and save money. The curves of the K-5 gutter face helps to
strengthen the gutter and keep it smooth and straight. The flat face
of the fascia gutters are all buckled and wavy. you can better see it if
you look straight down the length of the gutter.
Later they decided
that this flat look with a deeper gutter allowed a builder to get away without installing fascia
boards across the ends of the rafter tails, or even install the much
needed 1"x 3" drip edge sheet metal roof flashing. See
more details of this below.
|
| Introduction of Aluminum |
| Why
pay extra for aluminum gutters?
As we all know, aluminum does not rust. This is
because when raw aluminum is exposed to the air, it will oxidize within
minutes and creates a protective shield that stops this oxidization.
That is why it does not decay or rust through like the cheaper steel does.
It has been known to decay from exposure to some
chemical reactions. We have heard that salt water air, right on the
coast will cause aluminum to deteriorate, but we have not seen this first
hand. We have made cat litter boxes with painted aluminum, and the
urine seems to be acidic enough to break down the paint and even eat away
at the aluminum within a year or two. We have even seen copper
gutters deteriorate through the bottom in this area from some sort of
chemical reaction. Perhaps it was the chemicals used to protect the
wood shingle roof?
But for rain gutters, we have yet to replace aluminum
from such a deterioration. It seems that wild animal and birds do
not deposit enough to affect these external gutters. A good 70% of
our gutter replacement is due largely to the old steel gutters that rusted
through. It is only a matter of sloppy installation that causes the
need for the replacement of aluminum gutters, which is far more common an
issue than even dented gutters, so strength is a minor issue anyway.
With the introduction of pre-painted aluminum sheet
metal for gutters as a cost efficient option, Code Enforcement understood that aluminum is a
softer metal and much more prone to denting, so they wrote the code that
requires it to be about twice as thick, to compensate for the needed
rigidity. They did not make such a requirement for the downspouts,
hence they manufacture them with about as thin a sheet metal as they
can. That is why they are prone to denting so easily.
They claim the reason for the thin sheet metal is that
thicker sheet metal could not be run through their downspout forming
machine, but they do run the stiffer steel through it. They recently
conceded that the same thickness aluminum sheet metal can be run
successfully through it, but they charge twice the price, so none of the
other gutter contractors are interested in buying these thicker
downspouts. The suppliers sell downspouts in 8' and 10' lengths, and
these contractors also do not want downspouts that are harder to cut into
the needed lengths to fit the house they are working on. I use a Bosch
cordless 24 volt 10″ Compound Miter Saw to cut downspouts with these
days, so this is not an issue for me. It also cuts copper
downspouts.
You may meet gutter sales people that will claim that
their steel gutters are a better way to go since steel is a stronger
metal. But what they neglect to tell you that the steel they can buy
is a lot thinner than aluminum. If it were the same thickness, it
would destroy the bearings and rollers in their gutter machine, so don't
fall for this fallacy.
|
| Deeper
Fascia Gutters |
| What
about the deeper fascia gutters? aren't they better?
Building code also changed from
2x4 to 2x6 housing construction for thicker insulation requirements, but
normal gutters would not
cover the taller rafter tails, so they built the deeper fascia gutter
machine. It had nothing to do with managing rain water better.
It fact they do not work nearly as well for many reasons.
In the design, they narrowed the bottom as much as they
could to save sheet metal and still make the taller front and back side, but it
still required a sheet metal coil that was 3" wider.
So these contractors went back to using the cheaper steel sheet
metal, since the CCB only places a requirement to only provide a one year
warranty.
So many of these gutter contractors have gone this route
that the wider aluminum pre-painted gutter coils for these machines is
special order only. So now a
good 95% of the fascia gutters are run-out in this cheap steel. Don't just
take our word for it, feel free to call the local wholesale gutter
suppliers to ask what the sales numbers are for 15" steel VS aluminum
sales.
|
| Do
Fascia Gutters
Work? |
| Why
don't fascia gutters work to manage the rain water efficiently, even when
we clean them out several times a year?
I have replaced fascia gutters
on several houses that were less than 2 years old, for the reason that they fail to work
and the corners are prone to leak. If you are in the business to
replace failed parts, it tells a story. If we take the time and
effort to evaluate these reasons, we can come up with workable
solutions. There are numerous reasons fascia gutters fail:
First off; over 90% of all fascia gutters installed are
made with painted steel sheet metal instead of aluminum (see
below). It is because even though they narrowed the bottom of
the gutter, these deeper gutters require a 15" coil of sheet metal,
instead of the 12" coils of sheet metal used for the K-5 gutter. To
fabricate aluminum fascia gutters for you would add 25% to the cost of the
parts used, making it impossible to compete in the market, so most all
gutter companies that have a fascia gutter machine have reverted to using
steel sheet metal to the point that 15" coils of painted aluminum
sheet metal are special order only, and not stocked at the local
suppliers, adding even more to the cost.
2. The narrower bottom makes it that much harder for the
debris that will collect in the gutter to travel side ways. Causing
these gutters to jam up and fail to function. A deeper gutter is irrelevant.
Even if it were true that they held much more water, when it does clog,
that would only benefit you for about 5 to 10 minutes of raining, before
it fills to capacity and begins to over flow and dump it's load in a loud
and constant splashing of its man made water fall you have purchased. <LOL>
3. It is much more important that they do not clog and
your gutters continue to drain the rain water down the downspouts, as they
were meant to. With the narrow bottom, it limits the size of the hole that
leads into the downspouts. I would be unable to provide the no-clog
warranty to this type of gutter.
4. Most
fascia gutter machines have been designed to bend a small lip on the back
of the gutter to go under the roofing and over the plywood. This is
a fact. There is no other way these gutters can be installed.
If they were installed with this lip over the shingles, the rain water
would dribble behind the gutter and rot out the wood that the gutter is attached
to, and there is no space between the plywood and the rafter or fascia
board. The only way to alter the angle of the horizontal placement
would be to push the roofing shingles up on one end. That would be
very difficult to do with a gutter longer than 10 feet long, so I have
rarely seen this done. Especially with wood or tile roofing.
Most all fascia gutter installations I have seen have a substantial amount
of standing water build-up in perfectly clean gutters, so this will of
course accelerate the deterioration of these steel gutters.
5. A new gutter machine costs from
$5k to $10k (mine costing the latter), and I would
need to have a completely different machine for each shape. The K-5 machines are fairly
universal in their basic shape, but there are over a dozen or so different
fascia styles.
It is a real pain if you have to call around to match it up if you had to replace a damaged gutter.
Not to mention that many contractors would lie to you, saying they have
the right machine, and once installed, bank on the fact that few people
would go to all the trouble to force them to remove it and refund their
money.
6. One of the most common irritation with home
owners who have fascia gutters are the downspout installation with most of
these fascia gutters that do not have the curved elbows that are made for
the plain square steel downspouts. The owners of the gutter company
are too cheap to buy them, so they instruct their installers to cut the
straight downspout sections with a hack saw and fold these pipes.
This type of installation will only work in a completely debris free
situation, but they are still much more noisy, since the over-lap causes a
dead fall of water that will make a pinging sound for hours after it has
stopped raining as the roof and gutters slowly drain.
7. Building code here in Oregon only requires a one year
warranty, and in most cases, this is a short enough time to avoid any
warranty issues. To make sure that they will not have to deal with an
upset client, they will often install the inexpensive strainers in the
gutters at the outlet. They really do not care at all about the issue of a
clogged underground drain pipe, since this would not affect their warranty
responsibility at all. It is only to avoid your call back issue
within that first year of service because the downspout jammed up.
These strainers will block up most of the debris, and that debris will
begin to decompose and turn to mud, and at that point will not even let
water pass. If you were to call them about it, they will simply tell
you that your gutters need cleaned out, and remind you that they are not
responsible for keeping your gutters clean. These strainers are
death to any gutter, let alone steel gutters.
Is that enough reasons for you?
|