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Introduction |
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DMR's Work Standards for Gutters
The list below explains the details about the
31 clearly important advantages over the local competition for just
basic gutter and downspout installations. These do not even
including description of the
'No-clog option' advantages. For a comparison of leaf debris protection
for gutters with the different concepts and a list of advantages go
to my
No-clog Comparison web page,
which is much more than just a check list.
To the right is a copy
of the cover sheet I have as part of my presentation folder that I give
each client when providing them a bid. In this presentation folder
I also provide a list of my
current prices, a copy of the
Better Business Bureau's
NW Business Integrity Award
for the year 1997/98, 10 page FAQ, consumer protection
information required by the CCB with another consumer protection pamphlet they
wrote, a pre-stamped
postcard addressed to the Better Business Bureau for written
comments of my work or even sales presentation, and of course the
detailed bid
with a selection of color options for the pre-painted aluminum gutter parts.
I also supply a
physical sample of the gutters I install with a Monster Hidden
Hanger screwed in place and a sample of the hinged screen I use. If
the client is present at the time of the bid I also demonstrate a physical samples of
the Leaf-catcher I make.
You can click on
each picture on this web page to get a better detailed look or link to
pages with more detailed information.
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1. Installation
Experience and Ethics:
Doing business as DMR I have been local to the Portland Oregon
area since 1985. I have no employees, so your new gutter parts are installed by a seasoned
professional who is the owners of DMR Gutters, who has a vested interest in
my company's reputation, that no employee would possess. Not installed by
people you never got a chance to meet before hand.
I, David Rich have been working in forms of
paid construction work since 1980, and
was tested in school to have a 99% mechanical aptitude, with a high skill in spatial
arrangement, and an artistic back ground.
The first paid gig for wood working I got was for a large
human skeletal and muscular structure for the life-size
Darth Vader I designed and made for
the promotions of the Star Wars sequel 'Empire Strikes Back' in 1980 in
Salt Lake City Utah.
I have specialized in sheet metal gutter
custom fabrication and installation since 1992. In most cases
I
redesign the replacements to improve the drainage from what was there
before.
Tia Rich is not
only an attractive female, but she decided to set aside her career in
Nursing and Social Work to join David in this line of work full time for a few
years, so she understands this work from all angles as well. Tia is
also
very artistic and has a positive influences on this presentation and the
gutter work. She still loves being active in this business, but
she has built up her business as a metaphysical healer/counselor, hypno-therapist, Doula Birth Support, and is getting her degree in Midwifery.
Getting her hands covered with spray paint, caulk, and cuts
from working with the sheet-metal would not be good for her line of work, so she does not physically work with David
much these days, but is often found with him writing up bids. Her web
site for that work is:
http://inner-serenity.org.
Other than coffee and tea, I don't use artificial stimulants, always
working sober. I have written web pages on the
philosophy of good
ethics in business and
one's personal life to express my feelings on ethical responsibility. You can read more about
my background on my
Company History web page and
Biography web page. |
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2.
Honest Bidding:
All Contractors are required by the CCB
in State of Oregon to provide potential clients with a free realistic bid, so you as the
Homeowner can feel
free to get several quotes to receive enough information and competitive
prices to be able to make the best possible choice of whom to hire.
I would like to believe I am well worth the
wait, but I am often booked out half a year in advance. I encourage you
to get several bids to appreciate the advantages that I offer.
I do not claim to be the cheapest per foot out there, but for
what you get with my service, I feel you will be hard pressed to find a better
bargain. Use the information on this web page to help interview other
gutter contractors. Here is a Word doc file to print out with a check
list of these important details:
http://dmr-gutters.com/qs.doc
Without these advantages offered I have heard how other gutter
contractor's sales teams have claimed to sell their gutters for a lower price
per foot, but for some reason their bids have been hundreds more than
mine? I suppose that is very telling of what to expect of such
dishonest salesperson, that they would falsify measurements, so they
can claim a lower price per foot and still make more money than I.
If you are just doing research for a future
date, or are a bit nervous about getting a bid from me, you can go to my
Latest News
page to see how easy it is to write-up an estimate for yourself.
This will give you a good idea of what costs to expect. More
importantly it will help keep you from getting robbed by another gutter contractor
with inflated measurements. You can also have me try
to work-up a no pressure bid through e-mail with your measurements and a
few digital photos.
You can read more about my
thoughts on Ethical
Responsibility. |
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3. A More
Detailed Bid and Presentation:
The image
below shows the detailed 2 part carbonless paper copy bid chart I personally designed
in Adobe Pagemaker. It will have all the
measurements and a concise break-down of what parts are needed to do your job,
as seen on the right example.
No BS here. It comes with my standard presentation folder which consists of a
3 ring binder
that has 21 other printed sheets of information.
 
Click above to look over my custom gutter bid chart in more detail.
You can also print it out to fill in, so other gutter contractors cannot take
advantage of you with inflated measurements.
Here is a link to a 'pdf' file for an easily printable file:
http://dmr-gutters.com/BidChart.pdf
My bids are free to you (as long as you are
local to us), even thought beside
the cost of gasoline my standard presentation folder and materials cost
us about $10 each. Not to mention the cost of this comprehensive
web site, which I have personally invested thousands of hours to create
and maintain. This shows how a good presentation and sharing of
important information is very important to me.
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4. Most Detailed
Web
Site
I do not mean to brag here, but I do
clearly seem to have the most comprehensive web site on rain management
in the world. I challenge you to find a gutter contractor's web site that is
even 1/4th as comprehensive as this. I have spent thousands of
hours personally creating and updating this informative web site over
the last decade with over 200 web pages and over 2,000 clear digital
photographs to demonstrate what I am talking about here. Images
that enlarge to full screen digital images to get a better look if you
choose. |
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5.
Environmental Protection:
Saving Fuel
I use a more fuel efficient work vehicle than a conventional
truck. I transport my gutter machine on a separate trailer, to reduce fuel
wasted, since well over 90% of my driving does not require a gutter machine.
Savings to you, and better for ecology.

Construction
Debris
When possible, I do most of the fabrication
work at my shop. Thus reducing the number of trip to the job site, and
better control over noise pollution, visual pollution, and construction debris
at your house. The installation
goes pretty quick, once the gutters are fabricated and ready to install.
Pollution
I also do not leave construction debris at the
job site. Even the small rivet ends and sheet metal scrap cut-off gets saved
and recycled along with the old gutters. You would be hard
pressed to find one small scrap left on the ground, other
than maybe some tiny saw shavings.
As to noise pollution: I have yet to discover a quiet saw to cut
downspouts with, but my
24v
Bosch cordless miter chop saw does cut downspout to length at least 10
times faster than a hack saws used by those other gutter
contractors employees. This help to minimizing the time of that shrill noise.
Another reason I refuse to
install steel gutter parts, since this saw cannot be used on steel,
because it would break the carbide teeth off the saw blade. My impact
drill for running screws in is a bit loud, but I do not imagine it is
louder than hammering in those 7" nail spikes still used to hang most
gutters. |
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6.
The Type of Gutters I Install:
I only have 1 gutter profile
option. That seems limited, but this is the best gutter profile made.
Let me explain: I have had very little request for the larger more
expensive K-6
gutter, and I will not install an inferior gutter
due to my rigid quality standards. It is a wrestle to balance function
and aesthetics together, but there are some major problems with all the
other gutter profiles.
I turned down the largest copper gutter bid I
had ever done in late 2003, worth over $20k. All because the
owners insisted on half-round gutters w/the round downspouts. I
was going through their general contractor, so I was not able to speak with the owners to explain this
issue. My FAQ
web page goes into detail about why these and other gutter profiles
are very dysfunctional, and even look horrid on a house. Once you better
understand the history and development of gutters throughout the last
century it will make more sense. It explains why the K-5 design came about in the first
place.
Fascia gutters are very commonly seen on
houses built within the last 3 decades, but when I have been contracted
to replace these gutters on several houses less than 5 years old, this
should tell you something about how poorly they work to manage the rain
run-off. Continuous aluminum gutters used to be the standard
several decades ago. It was used in most all the adds as the new
buzz words, and home owners began to expected all metal gutters to be
aluminum. New-housing construction companies had gradually
reverted away from aluminum gutters to cut costs, reverting back to
installing cheap steel gutters, since it is not required by the building code
here. All they are required to offer is material that will hold up to a one year warranty!
My K-5
style rain-gutter
roll-forming machine produces a gutter that has numerous advantages over
all the other gutter profiles, ie: a wider bottom, which lets
the debris travel sideways easier, and allows for the larger outlet option, which
can reduce the most common area of rain-gutter clogging. (see 'faq' section for more
details).
There is no need for more options when you have the best profile at a reasonable
cost. This style
is also making a come back in housing fashions, since the fascia gutters has been
predominately used for new
construction in the larger cities since the 70's. Housing architecture is
going away from the plain boxy look, and more towards a classic ornate styling;
with wrap-around porches and 8 sided turrets. This wood molding
shape is a good accent to this look.

The most important problem is not the shape of the gutter,
but what the gutter is made of.
Around 40 years ago aluminum was the catch-word used to sell gutters and
siding, once aluminum became available and cost efficient. Most all
gutter contractors had switched over from using steel to using aluminum
in order to stay competitive. But when it came to the point that I expected gutters to all be made of aluminum, it stopped being the
phrase to identify the better gutter contractors. These gutter
companies stopped using that
catch-word in their advertising, and gradually switched back over to
using steel again, since it is sooo much cheaper. I would
see more cars made of aluminum if the number crunchers did not see the
long term financial benefit to sticking with steel for car frames and
body panels. In a word; planned obsolescence. It would not change
the cost of a car more than 10% to be made of a metal that will not
rust. The Acura sports car shown here demonstrates I do have the
technology to do it right. Even the suspension parts are
engineered in aluminum alloy. It would be great to see aluminum
used more, so there is much less wasted labor and materials, not to
mention the greater landfill problem, since many rusty steel and plastic
gutters are not recycled (plastic gutters will not
last even as long as steel gutters).
If called on it,
those gutter contractors will claim they use only steel for your benefit.
They will try to convince you
steel gutters are much stronger than aluminum. This is a lie and
they know it. Beside the fact
that damaged gutters accounts for less than 10% of gutter replacements compared to
the replacement of rusted out steel gutters, the steel being
used for gutters is much thinner. These contractors cannot
get steel that is as thick as the aluminum used for gutters. Even if
they could, it would destroy the bearings in their roll-forming gutter machine,
and bog it down, burning out the motor.
Before they ever came out with aluminum gutters, building code officials
required a much thicker aluminum sheet metal, to compensate
for this issue of aluminum being a softer metal. A very
high grade of aluminum alloy sheet metal is used for gutters. For
example; the recycle value of that aluminum used for rain gutters is
better than most other grades of aluminum. |
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7.
A Higher Quality Gutter Machine:
I spent an extra $1,500 on
my
machine for the
extra rack of rollers to
bend a safety hem on the back side
of the gutter to help keep it stronger and straighter to the roof edge. It
also provides an
open hem to push the no-clip hidden hanger up into the back of the
gutter, again keeping
the gap to the roof line as minimal as possible.
It may not be uncommon to have a portable
rain-gutter roll forming machine used to run out custom continuous lengths of
seamless sheet-metal gutters (pictured here),
but few have their machine on a covered
trailer, so it is not a rust bucket, like most roll-forming gutter
machines you will see on the road (see below). |
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8.
A Well Protected Gutter Machine:
Most gutter contractors leave their gutter machine exposed to the
elements on the back of their truck or on an uncovered trailer.
The manufacturers of roll forming gutter machines may install a few
stainless steel rollers, but they do not make these machines with
stainless steel bearings. They are not even galvanized steel.
They have no protective coating to resist rust. Many of the
rollers are just raw mild steel as well. Many of the bearing races
are in direct contact with the pre-painted gutter material, so pretty
much all other gutter machines out there are riddled with rusty rollers
and bearings, which will scratch the paint and even dent the new
rain-gutters. Within half a decade those gutter machines are only worth about
$100 a ton, since that is the scrap value of steel.
I
have one of the few gutter roll-forming machines that has been kept out of the
elements since it was new. I have already had to replace about a
dozen bearings in it due to rust just from condensation. I also keep my machine free of gutter coil when not
in use, as recommended by the manufacturer. This avoids
dust and
debris build-up from settling in the partially formed gutter, which can cause dents in
the gutter, and cause rust to develop on those rollers.
Honestly, this is a serious issue. When
getting bids, ask them to show you what condition their gutter machine
is in. As an example I had to rent a K-6 gutter machine once for a
large copper gutter job. That machine was only a couple years old,
but the guillotine was rusted solid and would not work. It took me
several hours to free it up with WD-40 and hammers. Then I tried to just
rotate the spool holding the copper coil, but the bolt to
loosen the lock was so seized up it broke off instead of turning.
That bolt must not have been even galvanized. Luckily I was making
copper gutters and did not need to worry about scratching up the paint
surface, but I was not happy with the results.
You can see and read about the design and
fabrication of the trailer shell I made to cover my gutter machine and
keep it as dry as possible on my 5 Gutter Machine web
pages. |
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9.
Rust Free Gutters:
I install
only rust free
sheet metal gutters in Aluminum and Copper, with rust free support brackets and
stainless steel screws on each gutter job. As far as I know, I am the only gutter contractor in this area
who even offer this as an
option. I have been told by the wholesale gutter suppliers that
I am the only contractor to consistently buy the better parts.
N
As stated above in section #6; after aluminum sheet metal had
become cost efficient and became the standard in the industry, primarily because of the use
of catch-words like aluminum in advertising.
So most of the gutter
contractors in this area had converted over to aluminum gutter parts. But in more recent
decades they have reverted back to using painted steel sheet-metal that is not
even galvanized. It is cheaper and
the CCB only requires a 1 year warranty on any construction preformed buy
licensed contractors.
If called on it, they will try to BS you; claiming
that steel gutters are stronger than aluminum, but this is a lie, and they
know it. When they first developed the aluminum
gutters, the code enforcement officials were not stupid. They knew
aluminum is a softer metal, so they required that for gutters it
had to be about twice as think, to compensate for strength.
Even if these
other contractors could buy steel as thick as this aluminum (which they
cannot), if they were
to run out steel sheet-metal that thick through their gutter machine it would
bog down or destroy the bearings and rollers in their roll-forming machine. You
simply cannot get thick steel continuous gutters. They do not sell such a sheet
metal for continuous gutter machines.
Another extreme example is when I replaced some custom steel gutters on 2
of the local Stuart Anderson
Cattle Co. restaurants. Those steel gutters I removed were so thick they
had to be formed in a shop on a powerful hydraulic bender in 10'
sections. Then they had to be torch welded together end to end.
I had to use a steel cutting blade on a circular saw to cut them apart
with sparks spraying out! Even though they had paid a small
fortune for these custom super thick steel gutters, they still did not
last. they had rusted through the bottom within 3 decades or less. Don't be fooled by a slick talking salesman. It is only a
matter of cheap materials and their profit margin they are trying to push steel
gutters on you.
Don't just take my word for it; call any metal recycler and ask
them how much steel is worth versus aluminum, you will find aluminum is worth
over 20 times as much per pound. Scrap steel is worth only 2 to 4 cents
a pound, where
aluminum goes for 25 to 45 cents per pound, depending on the current market. |
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10. Taking my time to do it
right:
Truthfully I am a lot slower than most all the other gutter
contractors, since I do not rely on employees, and I put so much more
into each job. Many see it as my most important advantage, instead
of a drawback. Being too far booked out I have lost many sales,
but I will not sacrifice quality for a larger production volume.
Sometimes I have been late getting started, because of unexpected work
required to finish the previous gutter job. I would have to say I take
at least 2 to 3 times longer to replace gutters and downspouts than the
average single installer.
One reason I am so slow is because I am
willing to do aspects of construction other gutter contractors are not.
A common problem I run across is finding that the drip-edge roof
flashing was not installed, or installed incorrectly and has to be
replaced. Some times the wood is too rotten to attach the gutters
to. With my 10 year installation warranty (instead of only 1 year), I
need to make sure it will last. With the screws I use to install
gutters with I know each time if the attachment is not good, since the screw
will strip out and keep spinning. It will not synch down tight and kick
back the drill. I
do not use the clutch on my drills to baby this like others might.
If it is not a secure hold I want to know right then. If so I
have to run the screw back out and re-angle the screw, switch to a
longer screw, or move the bracket to a more solid section wood.
Sometimes I find the boards are too rotten and need replaced.
I would like to believe that homeowners would want to know if there is
a problem, and I am taking this extra care on their house.
To help minimize this, when I prepare to do the gutter work for you, in most cases the gutters
are not more than about 40 feet long, so instead of pulling the gutter
machine trailer out to your house and need to block the road and parking
spaces:
1. I first come out to remove the old gutters and get the exact
measurements.
2. I then if they are not too long (40'+) I do most if not all the gutter preparation in my work shop.
3. I then bring the gutters out to your house on rubber pads ready to
install.

This means that I am not needing to be there
at your house with equipment and noise half as long. I have been
safely transporting long lengths of
gutters on my work car for well over a decade now and have not been
pulled over by the Police, or had an related accident. I am a careful driver and have not even had a
work related moving violation over the last decade +. |
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11. Stronger Support Brackets:
I purchase my extra heavy-duty aluminum,
or 48oz copper Monster Hidden Hangers
from a supplier back East. They are stronger than what is sold at the
local wholesale gutter parts suppliers
(reason:
supply & demand). This is for the strongest possible support of
my gutter
systems.
Sales
here in the N. W. of professional gutter parts to licensed gutter
contractors show that around 95% of gutters are still installed using the old fashion 7" nail
spike and ferrule tube to hold the outer edge of the
gutter out. They don't install them that way because nails are
better. It is not even because nails are cheaper or easier to
use. They are not easier. It is simply because the gutter contractors
are too
cheap to buy and replace a powerful $300
18v Makita cordless impact driver like I use. It is
a lot cheaper to buy a new or used hammer when their employees steal,
damage, or loose them. That is the real reason that these other
contractors will not graduate into the 21st century.

I used nails once, back in early 1992 working
for a general contractor before I had gotten my own contractor's
license. I realized right then how terrible those large nails were
for installing gutters. I knew there had to be a better way to do
this. I did some research and found the more modern and improved
solution.
I have not use nail spikes to install gutters
on any job in
over 15 years now (since 1992). I now have found a better source for even
stronger brackets than I first used. (see my
Snow Damage
web page for details on durability)
Before they came out with a stronger 18v
cordless drills back in 1997 I would have to find a place to plug in,
some times at a neighbors house. Then drag my corded drill up and down
my ladders to install gutters with
screws instead of nails, because I cared that much about quality and my clients
satisfaction.
I have even tried to encourage other gutter
contractors to switch over to hidden hangers,
but they are simply not interested. I am too small an outfit to be any
sort of competition to compel them to change over in
order to compete for business. If I am to ever see things
change, it is up to you to demand better
parts and service from contractors you get bids from. |
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12. Stronger
Installation:
I use all stainless steel wood screw installation for a stronger more reliable
hold. I even use 2 screws in each
Monster Hidden Hanger
(as shown). That is the equivalent
of 1 screw per foot, which is over 4 times the requirement of the
building code in this area.
Common sense and the over whelming evidence proves
nail spikes do not work. Most home owners are familiar with
these large nails working loose and need pounded back in place. Not that
I would ever do this, but even if I were to hammer the screw in, the
abrasiveness of the teeth would hole in better than a nail.
Just say NO to gutter
spikes!
If there is too much dry rot for a good hold, or
the board crack and splits, I will always know it, because the drill
will keep spinning as the screw has stripped out the wood and lost all
grip. Most
importantly; I will know every time when these screws have a good grip and
should hold.
If not, I will change the angle of the screw, use a longer screw, or
move the attachment to find some good wood near by. In cases
where there is not enough solid wood in close proximity of where I need to
fasten the gutters, I can then discuss with the client options for
replacing of
those rotten boards. This also allows for simple adjustment or removal of
the gutters latter on, if needed.
I also place the rain-gutter
hidden hangers every 2 feet, which is twice as much as building code
calls for. This makes the rain-gutters especially sturdy when
leaning a ladder against them and other causes of dents. They are
over twice as sturdy as any conventional installations for that fact
alone. |
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13.
Customized Solutions:
With my tested 99% mechanical aptitude, an advanced sense of spatial arrangement,
and artistic back ground I offer my clients custom design solutions where needed to
best accommodate their special needs. Something that seems to be quite the
rarity in this modern world of mass production and the loss of the
craftsman.
I have begun to sell a great deal of custom copper
work to clients across the Nation through my other web site http://copper-by-design.com, which now accounts for
a good 50% of my work. It will only be a matter of time before I
can no longer afford to do local gutter installations. Here is an
example (8/07) of my custom copper work
designing and building this decorative copper chimney for a client's
Victorian home in California:

See my
Custom Sheet Metal Fabrication web pages for examples of
my
creativity and problem solving skills. At the risk of vanity, I
seem to have very little competition through out the USA in this area of
expertise. |
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14.
Better Endcaps:
Again, I
send away for better press-on end-caps than the local
suppliers stocks, as well as sealing it better with a more expensive caulk and
also pressing the caulk into the seam with my finger, and then sealing
it to the elements with spay paint.
 
Also, as far as I know, I am the only gutter contactor in the Portland Oregon metro area who offers
Mitered Endcaps as an option to the ordinary flat press-on endcaps
seen to the left. They do cost a little extra, counting as a corner,
since it takes about the same amount of labor. I do not claim they will
last any better. It is simply an aesthetic issue. |
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15. Better
Caulk for Sealing the Gutters:
For rain-gutters long term water holding
reliability end-caps and corners are only as good as the caulk
and fasteners used. In the old days the best way to seal gutters was to
solder them together, since they did not have the advanced caulks we
have today. Open flame right near the wood structure has proven to
be a dangerous way to seal a gutter and does not work for painted sheet
metal or even unpainted aluminum. It is now best to use caulk and
rivets to seal copper gutters.
Because of a low demand for a better caulk from the
other gutter contractors in this area, I have to make a special trip to window
seal supplier to buy the best
caulk that they sell. It is called PRO-SEAL 34 out of Redmond WA
(1 800 349-7325). This is a higher
quality caulk than any of my competitors use, since it cost over 3 times
the as much as the caulks sold in the local wholesale professional gutter parts suppliers.
Using their M-34 Polycarbonate sealant
technology, this caulk remains soft and flexible and is
rated at 350% expansion after curing, compared to the others at 25 to 50% expansion, since it does
not
become brittle over time like the most common gutter seals do.

I also double seal the corners and cover the rivet ends
inside the gutter.
Then I press the
caulk in with my finger. I then smoothen it out, using spray paint as a solvent,
finding places I may have still missed (most
installers do not want to get their fingers sticky with caulk).
I then spray paint over that, to keep the UV of the sun off the caulk.
I have been
using it for over 10 years now, and I have had no caulk related warranty
work.
How many gutters have you
seen that leak at the corners? |
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16. Gutter
Leveling:
My
rain-gutter installation is carefully checked during installation with a level in order to maintain a slight slope towards the outlet.
I have the bubble in the level touch on line to give us my suggested
grade, as opposed to centered between the two lines.
This makes for little to no possible standing water in a clean gutter, and better
flow for drainage. The
wood screw gutter installation method allows for easy adjustment while I
am
installing my gutter products, or even changes later on, incase of
unexpected settling of the house were to occur.
I
have found that most installer do not even use a level for
most of their jobs.
Ask them
and have them put it in writing, and tell them you will be checking them
yourself when they care done. And if you hire them, watch them to
see if their employees do as their salesperson claimed they would.
You will still need to check it yourself with a level, so you can insist
they return to install them correctly. |
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17. Installation
Warranty:
Although the CCB requires Homeowners to file complaints within
a 1 year period of completion of the work licensed contractors do, I
provide 10 year labor warranty as a standard. How likely is it that you
will discover a problem within the first year and file a complaint in
time after that contractor had stalled you for as long as possible,
before you realize they will not fix the problem? With the Business
Integrity
Award I have received; this is a warranty you can trust. I have offered
longer warranties in the past, but at 45 years old
(1/63), how much longer can I be expected to be climbing ladders? |
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18. Rust Free
Rivets:
To assemble these sheet metal rain-gutters parts
together with aluminum or copper
rivets (like used in aircraft construction),
instead of the steel zip screws used by most installers.
LeafGuard
®
included. Those steel zip screws
are quick and easy to use, being one-step insertion, hence their name.
But those steel zip screws are prone to rust within a few years.
They cannot make usable aluminum zip screws, because they need the screw
threads to be a harder metal than the aluminum sheet metal or the
threads will strip off before they seat the two or three layers of sheet
metal together. I have found a source back East for stainless
steel zip screws, but then you still have this large hex head to see as
a lump on the outside of the gutters and they would not be the right
color. Simply speaking rivets are
the best fastener to use to hold sheet metal parts together, but most
gutter contractors do not want to bother with pre-drilling a hole and
then switching over to the rivets and riveting tool. |
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19.
More Rivets in Each Corner:
The big thing about professional gutters is for them to be made
in custom lengths to fit on your house as seamless as possible. But of
course we cannot make a seamless endcap or corner transition, so how I
seal them is paramount. As I assemble these sheet metal rain-gutters parts
together with a better caulk I also use 11 to 15 fasteners on each
corner, depending on what sort of configuration it is.
As listed above most gutter contractors just
use steel zip screws, and very few of them.
LeafGuard
®
included. Look closely at the gutters you have now and count the
fasteners holding the corners together. If you have ever closely look at
aircraft construction they use a lot of rivets close together. |
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20. Better Outlets
Since my humble beginning of gutter replacement in 1992 I remain one
of the only gutter contractors in the country to secure the first elbow
under the gutter before installation of the gutters (when
possible). At the outlet drop, I have also
been bending the floor of the gutter down into the outlet drop and
riveted through the side of the elbow through this flange bent down, to
secure the outlet and elbow to the gutter floor. Also sealing it with a
better caulk than what the other contractors use. Leaving
no obstruction in the floor of the gutter to begin a dam with debris inside
the gutter. To be consistent with the concept of water flow.
Even though it went against the norm of gutter construction, I (David
Rich) was able to quickly figure out how this is the only way these assembly
should be done. I challenge anyone to come up with a logical
argument as to why not. |
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21. Stronger
Downspouts:
The striped corrugation of the downspouts I use adds a good deal
of strength to the thin sheet metal, making them more dent resistant. As
opposed to the plain square downspouts you probably have now. |
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22.
Double Riveted Downspout Connections:
I double-rivet each downspout connection, so they
are much less likely to fall apart. I even rivet the first elbow
onto the bottom of the gutter, so it will not dislodge from the gutter. I
do leave one connection un-riveted right after that first elbow, so the
whole downspout can be removed for painting or other service.
Also see my 'Downspout
Comparison' web page to see more about this issue. |
|
23.
Downspout Wall Mounts:
For
downspout installations; I only use pipe cleats that are riveted into the back of
the downspout pipe, which looks
much nicer. I installed them with #2 Philips stainless steel screws for easy removal, with little
to no damage, (instead of the straps and nails that most gutter
contractors have their employees use).
I have been using these pipe cleats on all my
gutter jobs since 1996. I also use a larger pipe
cleat that was designed for the 4" wide downspouts. It has
6 pre-drilled holes for the attachment rivets instead of only 2, so theft of the
downspouts would be much more difficult. |
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24.
More Downspout Elbow Options and Custom Fabrication:
Most gutter contractors are too cheap to buy and stock any downspout
elbows, and instruct their installers to simply cut the straight
downspout pipes and fold them into shape. In a debris free
environment this will work fine, but it makes for a noisy downspout with
an annoying dripping noise. This also makes these downspouts
terrible for clogging in most situation. They also use the smaller
plain rectangular downspouts instead of the stronger corrugated
downspouts I use. Those smooth downspouts they use also show
dents more visibly that the corrugated type.
I stock over five times as many different types of downspout elbows and
manufacture what I cannot buy to provide my clients with a more custom
fit to their special house's needs, where most gutter contractors prefer
to minimize their inventory down to only 2 different types of elbows; the
most common 'A' elbow and the 'B' style shown here over the stone work.
I stock the following elbow configurations:
1. A
2. A offset
3. 1.5" double A offset
4. 2" double A offset
5. 3" double A offset
6. B
7. B offset
8. double B offset
9. funnels to combine 2 downspout into one
10. 3"x 4" A
11. 3"x 4" B
12. 3"x 4" to 2"x 3" reducer
13. custom built open top trays to traffic the rain water back to the
siding in areas with very little headroom:
 |
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25. Drip-edge
Flashing and other custom flashing needs:
I custom make heavy gauge aluminum or copper drip-edge flashing, to use on the many houses that were roofed improperly. The drip-edge makes sure the water
transition from the roofing into the rain-gutter properly, and
does not
soak under the roofing shingles to rot out the roof plywood, fascia board, or rafter-tails.
I also make matching custom fascia metal
covers to better protect the wood behind the gutters, or cover the
diagonal rake edge boards of the roof to hide old flaking paint and
cracked boards with ugly knots in them. |