DMR Gutters Local Parts Delivery Page

What type of parts are these?
These are the same professional parts I use, that are better than the sub-code quality parts found in the hardware stores normally sold to the do-it-yourselfers. These are continuous lengths of gutters for a seamless water troth There is a substantial difference with how strong they are and how long they will last. Many of these parts are even better than what the other licensed gutter contractors use.

For whom is this service available?
These prices are for those within our local Portland, Oregon Metro area only. If you are not local to NW Oregon, go to our Custom Parts Shipping web page for our special gutter accessories that I do ship. I do sell to home owners as well as licensed contractors.

When can you deliver?
Even if I am scheduled months out to do installations I can usually give you a good deal on gutter run-outs w/all the professional gutter parts needed, with the added convenience of prompt delivery (usually within a week from getting your payment). I require full payment before delivery of your order unless other arrangements were made.

For gutter runs above 150' the delivery fee is waived, but for smaller parts deliveries within our local Portland, Oregon Metro area it runs $75. More for long distances of course.

How do I arrange this?
The CCB does require all contractors provide free bids, but a gutter parts delivery does not fall within that requirement. Just like with any delivery from a lumber yard, I do not make a free advanced trip out to your job site to evaluate your need for gutter parts for you. Charging you a fee I can drive over and scale my ladders to get the exact measurements and downspout placements you would need, but if you are able to do the installation you should be able to do this for yourself.

I have gone out of my way to provide you with this convenient chart to help you work up this order. You can see a larger copy of our gutter chart by just clicking on the image above. Then right click over that larger image to save it off to your hard drive. Then open the image file into an image editor to print it out. Take measurements, fill it out using the prices below, and send it in with your payment. Feel free to e-mail me with a scanned copy for confirmation of your numbers or with any questions you may have. I will respond within 24 hours. I can mail you a hard copy if you are not able to print out this chart. Call me if it is very urgent. I may need to call you back, as I will most likely be at a job site, perhaps up on a ladder.

To clarify your options; there are a few different ways to do this and cost options.

(a) If you have a way to come here to get the parts and safely transport them, I can sell them to you for 10% less.

(b) If the gutters you need are all pretty short (less than 35'), that will expedite matters and make it easier for you. I can run them out here and just put them on the rubber pads over our 32' ladder (as seen in the background photo).

(c) I can make them a little longer to make sure they will fit just right if you are not too sure about your measurements.

(d) There is an extra $75 service fee to bring out the gutter machine trailer to the job site. I will need a high amp 120 volt plug-in to run the gutter machine and at least 85'+ space for the car, trailer, plus the length of the gutter to run them out. To make a special trip out to the job site to measure the house for you there is a $50 to $250 charge, depending on how far I have to drive and how complicated it is.

(e) It would cost extra if you need me to process all the gutter parts so they are ready to hang for you. You would also be subject to our schedule found on our Latest News web page. I would need exact measurements, or need to drive out there to get the measurements for you. The cost savings from not having me do the installation is minimal and you would not have our installation warranty, so that has proven not to be a popular option for the Do-it-yourselfer.

I hope this clarifies this process for you. I aim to please and be as versatile as possible to fit your needs. Let me know what options suit your needs best.

Minimum charge?
I will do small jobs, but there is a $200 minimum for deliveries. If you are able to pick up the parts here at our shop I will waive the minimum charge. Be sure to e-mail and call first to be sure I will have the parts you need in stock and to arrange a time for me to be here for the pick-up.

Do you pre-assembled gutters and seal them for us?
As stated above; for the prices listed below I do not do the assembly and sealing work for you, hence the detailed instructions I provide along with the recommended tools list.

The reason being is that if you were to have me deliver, assemble, and seal the gutter parts for you, you would be much better off to have me do the installation as well, since that way you don't risk possible damage to the gutter parts while installing, and you would also have my 15 year installation warranty, so there would be not much benefit to self-installation in that case. The draw back is how you would have to wait for me to fit this work in my regular schedule, which may be several month down the line of clients already contracted.

Here is a letter I received from a client who ordered over 200' of the heavy gauge 20oz copper gutters from me to install himself in Lake Oswego, Oregon. This may give you a better sense of what this is like better than anything I could tell you:

From: "Berglund, Carl A" <carl.berglund@XX.c*m>
Subject: RE: Berglund copper gutters.
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007

Thanks David,

I didn't ever find a crimper that could put a dimple for sealing the end caps that's why I am short in that I had to use rivets on every end cap. That sealant is some sticky stuff, worse almost than vaulkum.

In any event things went pretty smooth, I did find that on my house I could use pipe clamps to rest the gutter on prior to putting in any screws. This in my view made things much much easier. So depending upon how the fascia is put up, if there is a way to either a. clamp a board up to hold the gutter, or b. just use the end of the clamp it made it possible to get the gutter up, then position it, fine tune it's pitch, etc.. without ever doing a screw - very very handy. Also If I needed a helper it was only to get it up onto the clamps - then I was good to go.

Tips, I bought a very high quality level (I have numerous but the precision of the bubble for just touching the line wasn't very good. It's the blue ones about 35-40$ for a 2 footer available at Sears home depot, Lowes etc... it's there best one. Really did make a difference and felt confident that the slope would be just enough but not too much.

Just FYI, I find these gutters to be "noisier" than our old. Not sure why, maybe copper, or 20 oz copper has a louder "ring" to it when water drips into it.

I can see why you always wear gloves as well as long sleeve shirts, had a couple places where it was obvious my arm touched them while installing, should have worn a long sleeve.

Chop saw worked well but really loud, ear plugs recommended with eye protection a must.

Back to tips, invest in a good set of both short and long right and left tin snips. Additionally a good set of 3 inch sheet metal bender pliers for downspouts.

I found that for the downspout holes to work out best you can not just do a simple X cut but have to cut inward from the 1 inch hole saw area out and in the corners need real care to get them to end up as big a hole as possible yet have it flare into the downspout right - hope that makes sense but showing one that you have done to a DIY would be very helpful.

Pay very close attention to downspouts near corners or against any part of the house that projects out and do as much of the manipulation of the downspout bracket "holder" as possible prior to mounting it on the downspout. (I was able to do some of the bends with a bench clamp with good success and have the bends be more where I wanted them and cleaner this way.)

<Yes, those pipe cleats are made with a very thick 48oz copper sheet metal>

Pay close attention to rivet placement for consistent good looks on exterior.

Important - have an onsite consultation with you to aid in planning. You solved some nice issues in ways I would not have thought of in that I was too caught up in how it used to be rather than what was possible to do better.

The leaf catchers in my mind are way more important than the screens. I am finding with the gutters flowing properly they are not gathering to any degree the needles and leaf fall like they used to. A good strong deluge and the needles flow with the water and do a very good job of getting filtered out by the leaf catchers while essentially self cleaning the gutters. I would not ever have a house without them. (had them on the old gutters but they were of poor design and in that the gutters didn't always go downhill and the downspouts were small would always clog.)

<Right, the Leaf-catchers I make are my most popular feature for selling new gutter systems>

That's about it.

Some of the corners could be prettier but acceptable overall.

Haven't done the flashing on Chimneys yet, hope to this weekend, will put a patio umbrella into the chimney hole if raining so I can do it mostly dry...

Once we rock the chimney I will be back to you about chimney caps...

Thanks again, really appreciate everything.

Carl Berglund

Main Gutters & Downspout Prices
Items	Aluminum	Copper
Gutter Run-outs w/a Monster Hidden Hanger for every 2' of gutter w/a pair of stainless steel screws for each	$2.50 a foot	$10 a foot 16oz or $12' for 20oz
2"x3" Downspouts in 10' sections w/pipe-cleats and SS screws for mounting, and each Elbow	$2.50 a foot $3 per elbow	$10 a foot $12 per elbow
2x Larger 3" x 4" Downspouts in 10' sections and each Elbows w/mounting hardware	$4.00 a foot $5 per elbow	$14 a foot $16 per elbow or reducer

Other Professional Parts I Can Supply You
*Item(s)*	Aluminum	Copper
*Left or Right Endcaps* *2"x3"* *Rectangular Outlets* *DS Pipe-cleat Brackets w/6 rivets & 2 stainless steel screws for each (1 per 6')* Monster Hidden Hangers w/a pair of *stainless steel screws for each (1 per 2')*	*$1.75* *each*	*$5.50 each*
*3"x4"* rectangular outlets	*$2.00 each*	*$6 each*
*Painted aluminum or copper rivets w/brass mandrels (not available in all colors)*	*$5.50 per 100*	*$10 per 100*
*Pre-fab corners*	*$12.00 each*	*$45 each*
*PRO-SEAL 34 caulk 1.5oz waterproof plastic tube*	$16 *per tube*	*same*
*Matching can of spray paint*	*$6.00*
Comes in 5" or 6" sizes: 4' wide black powder bake finish steel Leaf Screens Copper screens come *in 3' wide sections, and are nor very sturdy.*	$1.50' - 5" $1.75 - 6"	$3.75*' - 5"* $4.50' - 6"
*15" long 3**"x4" to* 2"x3" DS reducers	*$15.00 each*	*$25 each*
*Our custom made Leaf-catchers* To read more about the design & function details of our Leaf-catchers see: http://dmr-gutters.com/opt.htm#catchers	*2"x3"* *$20.00* *3"x4"* *$27.50*	$35 $40
*1x3 .027 aluminum, or copper drip edge flashing*	*$0.75 per foot*	*$3 per foot*