Updated 5 / 2017

 Aluminum & Our exclusive 20oz Copper K-5 Style Rain-Gutter & Downspout Installation Quality Standards Page
(well above standard)

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Itemized bookmarked links to the indevidual DMR Gutters advantages
1. Installation Experience 13. Customized Solutions 25. Better Downspout Mount
2. Honest Free Bidding 14. Better End-caps 26. More DS Elbows
3. More Detailed Bids 15. Better Caulk 27. Custom Dripedge Flashing
4. Most Detailed Web site 16. Gutter Leveling 28. Free Color Selection
5. Go Green! 17. Longer Warranty 29. Responsive to Calls & E-mail
6. Shape, Design, & Size 18. Rust-free Rivets 30. Referrals & Awards
7. Better Gutter Machine 19. More rivets 31. Honesty in the Final Cost
8. Rust-free Gutter Parts 20. Flattened Rivets 32. Ethical Responsibility
9. Not a Speed-demon 21. Better Outlets 33. My Minimum Charges
10. Stronger brackets 22. Stronger Downspouts 34. Courtesy Gutter Cleaning w/Sale 
11. Strongest Attachment 23. Riveted DS Parts  Compare Debris Protection
12. Expansion Joints 24.  

Even if you do not happen to be local to us in the Portland, Oregon area you would do well to use this information to help you interview local Gutter Contractors. Here's a link to a PDF file to print out with a check list of these important details: http://dmr-gutters.com/qs.pdf

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Introduction

DMR's Work Standards for Gutters
Read reviews of Dmr GuttersIn stead of chasing the almighty dollar, I believe if I focus on our Client's long-term satisfaction our finances will also work themselves out. We put our customers first, so we don't come in second. After all these years I cannot imagine how there is any other way to run a business. I feel like I struggle against the current to provide a decent product for our Clients while doing well above minimum Building Code work, and cannot imagine how other Contractors see Building Code as a thorn in their side, and seek to trim cost by getting away with any short cuts they feel they can get away with.

The list below explains most of the details regarding our 32 unique advantages over most any other local Gutter Contractors for just my basic gutter and downspout installations, which are well above Building Code. Many details you will not get from other Gutter Contractors at any price. I do not offer our Clients the option to use less screws, or not to use stainless steel screws to shave the cost down. These don't even cover a descriptions of the our 'more affordable' No-clog option advantages I've done on most gutter jobs over the last 2 decades.  For a detailed comparison of leaf debris protection for gutters describing the many different concepts out there go to my No-clog Comparison web page, which is much more than just a check list you may have seen on other web sites.

To the right is a copy of our cover sheet I have as part of our presentation folder I give each client when providing them a bid.  In this presentation folder I also provide a list of my current prices, a copy of the Better Business Bureau's NW Business Integrity Award for the year 1997/98 to show my long standing commitment to quality, 10 page FAQ, consumer protection information required by the CCB, along with other consumer protection pamphlet they wrote, and of course a detailed bid with a selection of color options for the pre-painted aluminum gutter parts.

I also supply a physical sample of the gutter I install with a Monster Hidden Hanger screwed in place w/stainless steel screws.  If the Clients are present at the time of the bid I also have physical examples of the parts and a Leaf-catcher we custom make, which has a stronger stainless steel screen in them.

You can click on each picture on this web page to get a better detailed look or link to pages with more detailed information and photos.

1. My Installation Experience and Ethics:
Doing business as DMR I have been local to the Portland Oregon area since 1985.  Your new gutter parts will be installed by a seasoned professional who is also the owners of DMR Gutters perhaps with an apprentice. I have a vested interest in my company's reputation, as it seems I cannot pay others enough to care about my reputation. Ask their Sales Rep how much experience they've had installing gutters personally, if not actively an installer themself. Did they walking around your house with you pointing out suggestions for improvements which can and will be made to improve your rain management system? I do, if you are present at the time of the bid.

I would like to believe I am well worth the wait, as I have remained booked up 4 to 6 months steady over the last decade, all throughout the recession. I imagine any reasonably decent Contractor should be booked up. If not that is highly suspect as to their reputation. I have not had a single dispute needing resolved by the CCB doing business under the one CCB #92250 since I started as a Licensed Contractor.

I, David Rich have been working in forms of paid construction work since 1980 (over 35 years) while coming up with innovative solutions on most every project. I was tested in school to have a 99% mechanical aptitude, with a high skill in spatial arrangement, math, and an artistic back ground. The first paid gig for wood working and sheet metal fabrication was to build a large humanoid skeletal and muscular structure in a dramatic stance of a life-size Darth Vader with a detailed costume I designed and made for the promotions of the Star Wars sequel 'Empire Strikes Back' in 1980 as seen in the lobby of the exclusive showing in Salt Lake City Utah, since they do not sell a 7' tall mannequin. This demonstrated my early remarkable ingenuity at just 17 years old kid. My fellow classmates must have thought I was nuts building that in shop class!

I was an auto mechanic at my Father's shop specializing in Honda 600 cars for several years. I've specialized in custom rain management sheet metal fabrication and installation since 1992.  In most cases I redesign the replacements to improve their rain management system from what was there before in numerous different ways. Largely not offered by other Gutter Contractors. Like: expansion joints, adding or moving downspouts to improve drainage, wood work with screws, other custom work, and much better dormer rain management to mention a few.

Tia Rich my Wife had decided to set aside her career in Nursing and Social Work to join David in this line of work full time for a few years, so she understands this work intimately from all angles. Tia is also very artistic and has a positive influences on this presentation and the work we do.  She still loves being active in this business, but she has built up her business as a Midwife, so getting her hands covered with spray paint, caulk, and cuts from working with the sheet-metal would not be good for her line of work these days. She does not physically work with me much any more, but is often found with him writing up bids.  Her web site for her business is: http://inner-serenity.org.

Other than coffee and tea, we don't use artificial stimulants or depressants on or off work.  I have written web pages on the philosophy of good ethics in business and one's personal life to express my feelings on ethical responsibility.  You can read more about my background on my Company History web page and Biography web page if you're so inclined.

2. Honest Bidding:1999 Better Business Award
All Contractors are required by the CCB in State of Oregon to provide potential clients with a free realistic bid within their geographical area, so you as the Homeowner can feel free to get several quotes to receive enough information and competitive prices to be able to make the best possible choice of whom to hire.

I encourage you to get several bids to appreciate the advantages I offer.  I do not claim to be the cheapest per foot out there, but my bids have still come in thousands less than other prominent Gutter Contractors. Even if my bid is more than other bids you will be hard pressed to find a better value elsewhere for what you get with my service. Use the information on this web page to help interview other Gutter Contractors. Here is a PDF file to print out with a check list of these important details: http://dmr-gutters.com/qs.pdf

Other Gutter Contractor's salesmen may claim to have a lower price per foot (without the advantages we offer), yet I've heard from many Clients how their bids had been hundreds more than mine, if not thousands?  I suppose that is very telling of what to expect of such dishonest salespersons. This can only mean they had falsified and inflated your actual measurements to pad their bid, so they can claim a lower price per foot, yet still make more money than I.

If you are just doing research for a future date, or you're a bit nervous about suffering a high-pressure sales pitch, you can go to my Latest News page to see just how easy it is to write-up an estimate for yourself.  This will give you a good idea of what costs to expect. More importantly it will help keep you from getting swindled by less ethical Gutter Contractors with inflated measurements if you know your numbers beforehand.  You can also have me work-up a free no pressure bid through e-mail with those measurements with a few digital photos to see if there are any complications to factor in.

Another important detail you are not likely to get from any other Contractor is how our bid puts a ceiling cost on the project, unless more work is added to the contract, but the final price is usually a bit less than the original quote. I will use the final measurements I get after the installation is completed to recalculate your cost down to 1/4" of what actually stayed on your house, so you are not paying for the loose measurements listed on my bid, or any cut-off waste. At the same price per foot you only pay for what remains on your house. I have been doing this on each gutter job for the last 20+ years. This detail is even listed on our bid sheet, as shown in the image below.

You can read more about my thoughts on Ethical Responsibility.

3. A More Detailed Bid and Presentation: 
The image below shows the detailed 2 part carbonless paper copy bid chart I personally designed in Adobe Pagemaker.  It will have all your house measurements and a concise break-down of what parts are needed to do your job, as seen on the right example sheet.  More detailed than any other bid sheet I've seen. No BS here.  It comes with my standard presentation folder which consists of a 3 ring binder that has a dozen other printed sheets of information.


Click above to look over my custom gutter bid chart in more detail.
You can also print it out to fill in, so other Gutter Contractors cannot take advantage of you with inflated measurements.

Here is a link to a 'pdf' file for easy printing:
http://dmr-gutters.com/BidChart.pdf

My bids are free to you as long as you are local to us in the Portland, Oregon Metro area. 

4. Most Detailed Web Site:
I do not mean to brag here, but I have personally spent thousands of hours creating and updating this informative web site since back in 1996 with 85 web pages on this site and 227 web pages on copper-by-design.com with over 6,500 clear digital photographs to demonstrate what I'm talking about.  You may not care about gutters enough to read all of what I have provided, but it is here if you do. I could add a lot more, but with all this content what more is needed? I have been focusing on my custom copper work web site more these days, but gutter replacement is still what we book with most. It's just nice to be more creative and work out of the rain at times.

I clearly seem to have the most comprehensive web site on rain management in the world.  I challenge you to find a Gutter Contractor's web site any where in this country that is even 1/10th as comprehensive as this Just finding a site with images that enlarge to full screen to get a better look seems to be very rare. Not to mention the cost of this comprehensive web site. This shows how a good presentation, details, and shared information is very important to me and my attention to detail in my work as well.

5. Environmentally Friendly - 'Go Green!':
Saving Fuel:
I use a more fuel efficient work vehicle than a conventional truck without a gutter machine mounted in the bed.  I transport my gutter machine on a separate trailer, to reduce fuel consumption, since well over 90% of my driving does not require my gutter machine to be with me.  I even do most of the fabrication work at my home/shop.  Thus reducing the number of trip to the job site. I often do not need to haul the gutter machine trailer to the job site this way. Also savings you from several days of unsightly construction and noise.

I also have worked with thousands of Out-of-State clients on-line, so I am better able to handle many bids through e-mail, with a little help from savvy Homeowners like you (given you had taken the time to read this far), which can save on road trips.

Construction Pollution:
I will come over to remove the old gutters and get the exact measurement I need. Then doing most of the fabrication work at my shop allows for better control over noise pollution, visual pollution, and construction debris at your house.  The installation goes pretty swiftly once the gutters are prepped and ready to install. I do not use hammers to attach those parts, so there is not that sort of pounding noise to suffer. Although, with all I put into each job our installation tend to take about 3 to 4 times longer than most Gutter Contractors. An important detail I hope you can appreciate.

Construction Debris:
I also do not leave even small construction debris behind at a job site, other than maybe some saw-dust.  Even the small rivet ends and sheet metal scrap cut-off gets saved and recycled along with the old gutters. I have a 95% recycle rate with my construction work debris. Few Contractors can make this claim.  You would be hard pressed to find one small scrap left on the ground, other than maybe some tiny metal shavings. I will often be picking up some debris left by previous Contractors on the ground and off your roof I tend to find at most job sites.

Noise Pollution:
I do often like to listen to music while working, but I also have headphones to wear if that's an issue. Feel free to comment on this if it is at all a problem for you. I do not mind, and would much rather you were not discomforted.

I have yet to discover a quiet saw to cut downspouts with, but my 24v Bosch cordless miter chop saw does cut downspout to length at least 10 times faster than a hack saws used by other Gutter Contractor's workers.  This help to minimizing the drawn out time of that shrill noise.  Which is another reason I refuse to install steel gutter parts, since this saw cannot be used on steel, as that would break off the carbide teeth of the saw blade. My impact drill for running screws in is a bit louder than a normal drill, but still quieter than hammering in those 7" nail spikes still used to this day by most Gutter Contractors.

To help minimize this noise in most cases we prepare the gutter parts here at our shop. As long as they are not over 45 feet long, which is a good 95% of the gutters I've installed with the use of expansion joint rarely done by other Gutter Contractors. Instead of towing our gutter machine trailer out to your house and need to block the street and parking spaces in front of your house:
1. I first come out to remove the old gutters and get the exact measurements.
2. I do most if not all the gutter preparation in my work shop.
3. I then bring the prepped gutters out to your house safely on rubber pads ready to install.

I know this is unorthodox, but we exceed Oregon State road safety regulations, and over the last 2 decades of doing this I have not been involved in an accident while transporting gutters this way, or even been ticketed for such. I am a careful driver and have not even had a work related moving violation over the last decade +.


My current work rig just before leaving on a 2,500 mile trip to Canton, Ohio
with a load of copper gutters and fascia metal in late 2013

This means that we are needing to be there at your house with equipment and noise around half as long.

6. The Type or Style of Gutters I Install:
I have just the one gutter machine to produce a 5-K style gutter profile. I may be limited with just this one gutter profile, but this is functionally the best gutter profile at a reasonable cost. Let me explain: I have had very little request for the larger more expensive K-6 gutter, so it seems irrelevant. Something to consider is how the outlet size matters more than the gutter size. If the outlet is still the same small size then the size of the gutter would not help it's function. Even if the gutter were as large as a bath tub it would not work any better with such a small outlet that cannot drain any faster and is quick to clog.

Classic Half Round Gutters: Where it comes to other gutter profiles I will not install an inferior gutter due to my rigid quality standards and ethics.  I have turned down several high-end copper gutter jobs, because the Builder insisted on the old style half round gutter profile that was made obsolete a century back for good reason. Half round gutters would not be worth installing if they were half the cost. Although, they are more expensive. My FAQ web page goes into those details about why other gutter profiles are so dysfunctional. Once you better understand the history and development of gutter profiles throughout the last century it will make much more sense to you.  It explains why the K-5 design came about in the first place.

It is a wrestle to balance function, aesthetics, longevity, and cost together, but there are some inherent problems with each of the other gutter profiles. A larger gutter for houses is pointless: when the outlet clogs you may have 5 minutes, in stead of just 3 minutes before it overflows. A larger outlet w/o a strainer in it will make a much greater difference to keep the outlet from getting damned up with debris. My aim is to build you a system that will continue to function, so you do not have to scale the roof in the worst of weather when you realize you have a problem.

Fascia Gutters: These are very commonly seen on houses built within the last 4 decades, but I've been contracted to replace so many of these gutters on numerous houses less than 5 years old due to their inherent flaws. Long before they started to rust out. That should tell you something about how poorly they function managing your rain run-off. 

 Continuous aluminum gutters used to be the standard back when I was a kid.  It was used in most of the ads as the buzz words, and Homeowners began to expected all metal gutters were made with aluminum.  Although, new Construction Builders continued to install cheap steel gutters at least 90%, since it is not required by Building Code to have rust free gutters.  All they are required to offer is material that will hold up to a one year warranty and steel sufficed. Sadly this demonstrates their clear lack of ethics. Think about what other corners they cut building your dream house. Even gutters seen on the Street of Dreams homes do not compare to what we do on each job.

Here is a close-up of a hidden hanger and screw, in an almond painted aluminum gutter My K-5 style rain-gutter roll-forming machine produces a gutter that has numerous advantages over all the other gutter profiles, ie: a wider bottom, which lets the debris travel sideways easier, and allows for a larger outlet option, which can reduce the most common area of rain-gutter failure. (see 'faq' section for more details). I appreciate a Clients concerns for their aesthetic interests, but with such strong disadvantages with the other gutter profiles they are just not practical and I will refuse to install them. There simply is no need for more options when you have the best gutter profile on the market at a reasonable cost. 

This style is also making a big come back in housing fashion, since the fascia gutters had been predominately used for new construction in the larger cities since the early 70's and has become passé.  Housing architecture is going away from the plain boxy look, and towards a more classic ornate styling with wrap-around porches and 8 sided turrets, so this wood molding shape is a good accent to these styles. Much like you see with the finest kitchen cabinetry these days moving away from the plain modern look that started back in the 60's.

The most important issue to me is not the shape of the gutter, but how well they are installed and function with minimal maintenance. In a word; planned obsolescence. Most homeowners are familiar with those long gutter spikes coming loose, and the clear advantage of screws. what would you rather have? A pair of stainless steel screws every 2', or 1 large nail placed 4' apart? I've removed heavy steel gutters that were only a few years old  pulled off with my bare hands with very little effort. Some gutters we've removed were nailed as little as an 8' span with just one nail, and nails what were too short no less.

7. Higher Quality Well Protected Gutter Machine:
I spent an extra $1,500 on my gutter machine for the extra rack of rollers to bend a safety hem on the back wall of the gutter to help keep it stronger and straighter across to the roof edge.  It also provides an open hem to push the no-clip hidden hanger up into the back of the gutter, again keeping the gap to the roof line as tight as possible. A detail you will not find elsewhere.

It may not be uncommon to have a portable rain-gutter roll forming machine used to run out custom continuous lengths of seamless sheet-metal gutters (pictured here), but very few Gutter Contractors have their machine in a covered trailer, so it is not a dirty rust bucket, like most roll-forming gutter machines you've see on the road.

Most Gutter Contractors leave their gutter machine exposed to the elements on the back of their truck or on an uncovered trailer.  The manufacturers of roll forming gutter machines may install a few stainless steel rollers, but they do not make these machines with stainless steel bearings or frame.  They are not even galvanized steel. Many of the rollers are just raw mild steel as well.  Many of the bearing races are in direct contact with the pre-painted gutter material, so pretty much all other gutter machines out there are riddled with rusty rollers and bearings within the first year of operation, which will scratch the paint and even dent the new rain-gutters. Within 5 years those gutter machines are only worth their scrap metal value.

I have one of the few gutter roll-forming machines that has been kept out of the elements since it was new.  I have already had to replace about a dozen bearings in it due to rust just from condensation in the air.  I also keep my machine free of gutter coil when not in use; as recommended by the manufacturer.  This avoids dust and debris build-up from settling in the partially formed gutter, which can cause dents in the gutter, and cause rust to develop on those rollers that much faster.

This is a serious issue most people would not have considered.  When getting bids ask them to show you what condition their gutter machine is in.  As an example I had to rent a K-6 gutter machine for a large copper gutter job I did back in 2000.  That machine was just 2 years old, but the guillotine was so rusted it would not move.  It took me several hours to free it up with WD-40 and hammers.  Then I tried to just rotate the spool holding the copper coil, which was going the wrong direction, but the bolt to loosen the lock was so seized up with rust it broke off instead of turning.  That bolt must not have been even galvanized. Luckily I was making copper gutters and did not need to worry about scratching up a paint surface, but I was not happy with the results of those gutters run through that relatively new gutter machine.

You can see and read more about the design and fabrication of the trailer shell I made to cover my gutter machine and keep it as dry as possible on my Gutter Machine web pages.

Here is a close-up of a hidden hanger and screw, in an almond painted aluminum gutter 8. Only Rust Free Gutters:
To me the word 'iron' is a 4 letter word in my vocabulary. The same as the word 'rust'. I will only install rust free sheet metal gutters in aluminum or 20oz copper with rust free support brackets and stainless steel screws on each gutter job. Plastic gutters may not rust, but they will not last even as long as typical steel gutter. I have been told by the wholesale gutter suppliers I am the only Gutter Contractor to consistently buy these better parts.

Aluminum sheet metal had become cost efficient back in the late 60's and was used as a catch-phrase in advertising, so most of the Gutter Contractors in this area had converted over to aluminum gutter parts.  Although, still to this day new construction had never stopped using painted steel sheet-metal for gutters and roof flashing, which is not even galvanized.  It is cheaper and the CCB only requires a 1 year warranty on any construction preformed buy a Licensed Contractors, so they are able to get away with this sort of shoddy work.Here is a close-up of a hidden hanger and screw, in an almond painted aluminum gutter

As an example: it would not change the cost of a car more than 5% to be made of a rust free metal, yet all the Auto Manufacturers remain stuck on using steel in their frames and most of their body panels, even though they have been using aluminum in the engine block for several decades. Think about how long they have been making most ladders with aluminum without any paint coating. The Acura sports car shown here demonstrates how we had the technology to do it right in a production line car as much as a 1/4 century back.  Even the suspension parts are engineered in cast aluminum alloy.  It would be great to see aluminum or other light weight strong materials used more, so there is much less wasted labor and materials, not to mention a greater landfill problem, since many rusty steel and plastic gutters are not recycled.

If called on it, those Gutter Contractors will claim they use only steel for your benefit.  They will try to convince you steel gutters are much stronger than aluminum.  This is a lie and they know it.  Beside the fact that; damaged gutters accounts for less than 10% of gutter replacements, compared to the replacement of rusted out steel gutters, which is around 70%. The steel being used for gutters is much thinner than aluminum.  These Gutter Contractors cannot get steel which is as thick as the aluminum used for gutters.  Even if they could, it would destroy the bearings in their roll-forming gutter machine, and bog it down, burning out the motor.

At the time they came out with aluminum gutters building code officials required a much thicker aluminum sheet metal to be used to compensate for this issue of aluminum being a softer metal.  A very high grade of aluminum alloy sheet metal is used for gutters.  For example; the recycle value of that aluminum used for rain gutters is higher than most other grades of aluminum.

Another extreme example: I replaced some super thick custom steel gutters on 2 of the local Stuart Anderson Cattle Co. Restaurants back in 1997.  Those steel gutters I removed were so thick they had to be formed in a shop on a powerful hydraulic bender in  10' sections and welded together end to end.  I had to use a steel cutting blade on a circular saw to cut them apart with sparks spraying out!  Even though they had paid a fortune for those custom steel gutters, they still did not last.  They had rusted through the bottom within a couple decades.  Don't be fooled by a slick talking salesman.  It is only a matter of cheap materials and their profit margin they are really interested in, which is why they try to push steel gutters on you.

Don't just take my word for it; call any metal recycler and ask them how much steel is worth versus aluminum, you will find aluminum is worth over 20 times as much per pound.  Scrap steel is worth only about 1 to 2 cents a pound, where aluminum goes for around 25 to 35 cents per pound as of 4/16. Although, the new material price spread is not nearly that wide. Where it comes to gutter coil it is actually about the same cost for the aluminum that is 50% thicker than steel gutter coil per linear foot, so you must consider their motivation for pushing steel on you, if it is not for the single purpose of planned obsolescence. One must conclude they get a sadistic thrill to know they have taken advantage of your trust in them.

9. Taking time to do it right:
This is actually several advantages combined into one section. I readily admit how I am a good deal slower than most any other Gutter Contractor, because of these many details I implement into each gutter job I do. Partly by how I do not rely on largely untrained crews to do the work for me. I also put much more into each job than they could at any price without being asked to. Even more details than I could list here and explain.

I trust you will see this slow pace as my most important advantage, instead of a drawback.  Being booked out so far I have lost more sales as a result than I am able to schedule in, but I will not sacrifice quality for a larger production volume.  Sometimes I have been late getting started, because of unexpected work required to finish the previous gutter jobs.  I would have to say I take at least 2 to 3 times longer to replace a gutter system than the average Gutter Contractor per man. Think about that for a bit. What are they NOT doing to be able to slap up gutters so quickly?

One reason I am so slow is because I am willing to do aspects of prep and construction work other Gutter Contractors are not capable or willing to do at any price.  A common problem I run across is finding that the drip-edge roof flashing was not installed, installed incorrectly, or so rusted it needs be replaced.  Some times the wood is too rotten to attach the new gutters onto and needs replace, but often I would not find this out until I have attempted to install the new gutter. With my 15 year installation warranty (instead of only 1 year), I need to make sure it will hold up.  With the screws I use to install gutters I know each time if the attachment is good or not, since the screw will strip out and keep spinning if the board were to crack or there is just too much dry-rot around the screw threads. It will not synch down tight and kick back the drill.  I do not use the clutch on my drills to baby this like others might.  In stead I use an impact driver.

If it is not a secure hold I want to know right then.  If so I know I have to back out the screw to re-angle it, switch to a longer screw, or move the bracket to a more solid section wood.  Sometimes I find the boards are so rotten they need replaced.  No one wants to hear bad news, but I believe the Homeowner would want to know if there is a problem like this, and I am taking this extra care on their house to do it right. Not because I want to inflate the cost of the job. Fascia replacement has been less than 15%, so clearly I am doing my best to work with what is there.

Another issue is how most Gutter Contractors do not want to bother with pre-drilling a hole and then switching over to hand riveting tool. It takes too long, so they have their installers use steel zip-screws in stead, which will not only rust out in short order, but have a 4X larger heads that show on the outside of the gutter parts.

Leveling the gutters properly is also another reason my work takes longer. From what I have witnessed from the thousands of gutters I have removed most installer just mount the gutter straight with the roof line and call it good without using a level or any water test. They don't care how well the gutter drains. With most of them installing cheap steel gutters this is a seriously neglected detial. I live by the level. I work hard to get a slight grade to drain towards each outlet. I even crimp the back wall of the gutter over each outlet to make the gutter dip there at the outlet, so it is sloped downwards on both sides of each outlets. Another detail I have yet to see any other Gutter Contractor do.

Also, implementing expansion joints is a detail rarely considered by most Gutter Contractors. It clearly has been the single most important issue, yet the most neglected detail of gutter jobs. I simply explain this clearly to the Homeowner in advance what it is and why, so there is no issues with them once I am done. Yet, apparently way too much effort for other Gutter Contrctors to do.

Expansion joints are critical to relieve the tension off the corners, and also to avoid the sideways sheer strength of the gutter, which can littlerally break off the screw heads holding the gutter on. I had seen this happen to my earlier gutter replacement prior to 2004, so I am careful to work this in where possible in lengths over 35' to 40' long. Especially if there are corners at the ends.

10. Stronger Support Brackets:
I purchase my extra heavy-duty 0.063 aluminum, or 48oz solid copper Monster Hidden Hangers from a supplier back East.  They are stronger than any hidden hangers sold at the local wholesale gutter parts suppliers (reason: supply & demand). This is for the strongest possible support of my gutter systems. Why use a life-time metal if they are not installed well?

Sales here in the N. W. of professional gutter parts to Licensed Gutter Contractors show that over 80% of gutters are still installed using the old school 7" nail spike and ferrule tube to support gutters.  They don't install them that way because nails are better.  It is not even because nails are cheaper or easier to use.  They are not easier.  It is simply because the Gutter Contractors are too cheap to buy and replace a powerful $300 18v cordless impact driver like I use, each time their employees steal, damage, or loose them.  That is the real reason those other Gutter Contractors will not graduate into the 21st century.

Nails are for Neanderthals!

I used nails once, back in early 1991 working for a general contractor before I had gotten my own Contractor's License.  I realized right then how terrible those nails were for installing gutters.  I knew there had to be a better way to do this.  I did some research and found this more modern approach to gutter installation. I have not use nail spikes to install gutters on any job in over 18 years now (since 1992). I now have found a better source for even stronger brackets than I had first used.  (see my Snow Damage web page for details on durability)

Before they came out with a stronger 18v cordless drills back in 1997 I would have to find a place to plug in, some times at a neighbors house.  Then drag my corded drill up and down the ladder to install gutters with screws instead of nails, because I cared that much about quality and my clients satisfaction. 

I have even tried to encourage other Gutter Contractors to switch over to hidden hangers, but they are simply not interested.  I am too small an outfit to be any sort of real competition to compel them to change over in order to compete for business.  If we are to ever see things change it is up to you to demand better parts and service from Contractors you get bids from.

11. Stronger Installation w/Stainless Steel Screws:
I use thicker #12 stainless steel screws for gutter installation for a stronger more reliable hold of the gutters and downspouts.  Most deck screws are just a #9 size thickness. I even use 2 screws in each Monster Hidden Hanger
(as shown).  That is the equivalent of 1 screw per foot within the gutter span, so if you imagine a screw has a 2X better hold than a nail this is unaguably 8 times the requirement of Building Code in this area of just 1 nail per 4'.

Here is a close-up of a hidden hanger and screw, in an almond painted aluminum gutter Common sense and the over whelming evidence proves nail spikes do not work.  Most Homeowners are familiar with these long nails working loose, and then need pounded back in place each time they're up there to clean out their gutters. Not that I would ever do this, but even if I were to hammer the screw in; the abrasiveness of the threads would hold in better than a nails.

Just say NO to nails!

The only down side to screws is they are more brittle than a nail, which is why I insist on SS screws, which are less brittle than deck screws. Also, a pair of #9 deck screws would give you an 18, where a pair of #12 SS screws gives you a 24 in the strength rating per bracket, so that's 150% stronger than what another Gutter Contractor would give you if they claimed to do the same, but not use our #12 SS screws. Although if they made such a claim you would know they were lying to you, since they would not know where to get these 2 and 3 screw hole hidden hangers we use.

If there is too much dry rot for a good hold, or the board crack and splits, I will always know it, because the drill will keep spinning, since the screw had stripped out the wood and lost all grip.  Most importantly; I will know every time when these screws have a good grip and should hold long term.  If not, I will change the angle of the screw, use a longer screw, or move the attachment to find some good wood near by.  In cases where there is not enough solid wood in close proximity of where I need to fasten the gutters, I can then discuss with the Client options for replacing of those rotten boards.  This also allows for simple adjustment or removal of the gutters latter on, if needed.

I also place the rain-gutter hidden hangers every 2 feet, which is twice as much as building code calls for.  This makes the rain-gutters especially sturdy when leaning a ladder against them and other causes of dents.  They are over twice as sturdy as any conventional installations for that fact alone.

12. Expansion Joints Where Needed:

Shown below is an outlet expansion joint of my own design. I make this custom tray that is riveted to one end of the gutter, so the other gutter can dunp into it, with the 2X larger elbow attached and sealed under this tray.

Sadly implementing expansion joints is a detail rarely considered by most Gutter Contractors. It clearly has been the single most important issue, yet the most neglected detail of gutter work. I simply explain this clearly to the Homeowner in advance about what it is and why, so there are no issues with them once I am done. Yet, apparently that's way too much effort for other Gutter Contrctors to do.

Shown below I split the gutter in the middle, sealed the ends with a pair of end-caps facing each other leaving a 1/2" gap between them. I then have a template for making a special cover for over those end-caps and also add a 12" long piece of gutter from underneath with the floor of it bent 1/8" wider to fit over those end-caps to hide this gap. Another benefit is how this modular design allows you to only have the damaged half of the gutter to replace when one side were to get damaged.

Expansion joints are critical to relieve the tension off the corners, and also to avoid the sideways sheer strength of the gutter, which can littlerally break off the screw heads holding the gutter on. I had seen this happen to my earlier gutter replacement prior to 2004, so I am careful to work this in where possible. Especially within lengths over 35' to 40' long. Especially if there are corners at the ends.

13. Customized Solutions not offered by other Gutter Contractors:
With my tested 99% mechanical aptitude, an advanced sense of spatial arrangement, and artistic back ground I offer my clients custom design solutions where needed to best accommodate their special needs.  Something that seems to be quite the rarity in this modern world of mass production and the loss of the craftsman. 

I have begun to sell a great deal of custom copper work to clients across the Nation through my other web site http://copper-by-design.com, which now accounts for a good 50% of my work. I've begun an training and apprenticeship program to find young workers who may share my ethics for quality. Here is an example of my custom copper work designing in building this decorative copper chimney for a client's Victorian home in California clear back in 2007:

See my Custom Sheet Metal Fabrication web pages for more examples of my creativity and problem solving skills.  At the risk of vanity I seem to have very little competition through out the USA in this area of expertise.

14. Better End-cap Options:
As well as sealing them better with a more expensive caulk I also press the caulk into the seam with my finger and then seal it to the elements with spay paint. I'm one of the only Gutter Contractors who offers a Mitered End-cap option seen to the right.

They do cost a little extra; counting the same as a corner, since it takes about the same amount of labor. I do not claim they will last any better, but they are a little stronger. It really just an aesthetic detail. They are more durable with a thicker sheet metal than the standard end-caps seen on the left. I am not one to insist on a detail like this. It's only about 10% to 15% of my aluminum gutter Clients who go for this option. I often do not even mention it, So many of them may not even know they have this option. With our Copper Clientele it's more like 90% who want to keep his option.

15. Better Caulk for Sealing the Gutters:
For rain-gutters long term water holding reliability of the end-caps and corners are only as good as the caulk and fasteners used.  In the old days the best way to seal gutters was to solder them together, since they did not have the advanced caulks we have today.  Open flame right near the wood structure has proven to be a dangerous way to seal a gutter and does not work for painted sheet metal or even unpainted aluminum.  It is now best to use caulk and rivets to seal even copper gutters.

Because of the high cost and low demand for a better caulk from the other Gutter Contractors in this area I have to make a special trip to a window seal supplier called Pacific Putty to buy the best caulk they sell, which runs over 3X the cost used by most Gutter Contractors.  It is called PRO-SEAL 34 out of Redmond WA (1 800 349-7325).  This is a higher quality caulk than any of my competitors use, since it is so expensive and not sold at the local wholesale professional gutter parts suppliers. 

Using their M-34 Polycarbonate sealant technology, this caulk remains soft and flexible and is rated at 350% expansion after curing, compared to the others at 25 to 50% expansion, since it does not become brittle over time like the most common gutter seals do.

We also double seal each corners and cover the rivet ends inside the gutter.  Then I press the caulk deep in the seam with a finger.  We then smoothen it out again with a finger using spray paint as a solvent, finding places we may have still missed (most installers do not want to get their fingers sticky with caulk). I then spray paint over that, to keep the UV of the Sun off this caulk.  I have been using it for about 15 years now, and I have had no caulk related warranty issues.

I started using Geocel 2300 for the first few years, but I have been using Proseal 34 for the last 15 years to seal corners and end-caps in aluminum and copper gutters. It is pricy, but it seems to work well, and can be applied in wet weather. It has a plastic tube, so it will not burst when the tube gets a little wet. It may not do well with an extreme pull test, since it's chief advantage is it's claim to a 350% expansion rating.

Although, the most common failure is not the sealant releasing. It's because the Installer failing to implements the expansion joints needed in long gutter runs. If a gutter is more than 40' with corners on each end I split the gutter in the middle capping off the ends. I then cap over the pair of end-caps, so it cannot leak between them. I also add a 1' piece of gutter with the floor bent a little wider to cover the end-caps, so the 1/2" gap is hidden. This relieves a great deal of tension from the corners as temperatures change and stretch the metal different than the wood structure.

Goops to seal rusty gutters are a waste of time. It may stick to the rust for a while, but the rust will not stay attached to the steel. Then the goop will just hide moisture under the separation, which will then rust the gutter even faster.

How many gutters have you seen leak at the corners and end-caps?

16. Gutter Leveling:
It makes no sense, but I've found this is a terribly overlooked issue with most Gutter Contractors. My rain-gutter installation is carefully checked during installation with a level in order to maintain a slight slope towards the outlet.  I have the bubble in the level touch one line to give us a suggested grade, as opposed to centered between the two lines.  This makes sure there's no possiblility of standing water in a clean gutter, and better flow for drainage. The wood screw gutter installation method I use allows for easy adjustment while I am installing the new gutter lengths, or even changes later on, incase of unexpected settling of the house decades later.

I have found that most installers do not even use a level. They just place them straight with the roof-line and call it good. Often times I've seen where it only takes and inch of debris near the outlet to cause the gutter to over-flow at the other end of the gutter. The Installer just says how it is not their responsibility to keep your gutters perfectly clean, but that still means even when they are clean they may have as much as 4" of standing water in the other end of the gutter. How crazy is that?

Ask about this issue when getting bids, and have them put it in writing how they will make sure there is no standing water in the new gutters they install. Also, tell them you will be checking them for yourself when they are done with a garden hose. And if you hire them, watch them to see if their employees do as that salesperson claimed they would and check the new gutters with a level.  You will still need to check it yourself with a level or do a water test, so you can insist they return to install them correctly, but most likely they will damage the new gutters removing the nail spikes trying to grade them differently. Fascia style gutters cannot even be leveled, let alone given a proper grade towards the outlets, because of the inward lip on the back wall of the gutter that has to rest over the plywood of the roof.

We even crimp the back wall of the gutters over the outlets, so they will dip at the outlet and drain downwards from both sides. Another detail I have not seen any other Gutter Contractor do.

17. Installation Warranty:
I provide 15 year installation warranty as my standard policy (see our Warranty page). With the Business Integrity Award I have received my warranty is one you can trust in. I had offered longer warranties in the past, but at 54 years old (1/63), how much longer can I be expected to be climbing ladders? I've seriously hurt my back twice already in the last decade because of ladders. I have a Son who was born in 2000, but for all I know he may want to become a florist? I plan to run this business for the rest of my days, but I resist making unrealistic claims.

Many Gutter Contractors will intentionally mislead their clients with material warranties, as if it were their installation warranty. They will not be obligated to stand by their work when push comes to shove beyond that first year of completion. The problem you run into with most Contractors is how the CCB requires Homeowners to have filed a valid complaints within 1 year period from completion of any work by Licensed Contractors, or it is thrown out as invalid. How likely is it that you will discover a problem within that first year? Then have exhausted your efforts to resolve this issue with that Contractor after he does what he can to stall you for as long as possible, before you find the need to file a complaint in time with the CCB, once you've realized they will not fix the problem? I've even heard clients tell me they were threatened with physical violence by their Contractor if they pursued a complaint.

18. More Rust Free Rivets used, in stead of a few steel zip-screws:
We assemble these sheet metal rain-gutters parts together with aluminum or copper rivets (like used in aircraft construction), instead of the steel zip screws used by most Gutter Contractors.
LeafGuard ® included.  Those steel zip screws are just quick and easy to use, being one-step insertion, hence their name.  But those steel zip screws are prone to rust within a few years.  They cannot make usable aluminum zip screws, because the screw threads have to be a harder metal they are fastening, or the threads will strip off before they seat the two or three layers of sheet metal together.  I have found a source back East for stainless steel zip screws, but then you still have a large hex head to see as a much larger lump on the outside of the gutters. They also would not be the right color in most cases not being painted to match. 

Simply speaking rivets are the best fastener to use to hold sheet metal parts together where parts cannot be soldered or spot-welded together, but most Gutter Contractors do not want to bother with pre-drilling a hole and then switching over to hand riveting tool. It takes too long in their mind-set, which says a lot about what they really think of quality workmanship.

19. More Fasteners in Each Corner:
As you see here the big thing about professional gutter work is for each gutter length to be custom formed in lengths to fit on your house as seamless as possible. Of course we cannot make a seamless end-cap or corner transition, so how we seal those is paramount. As I assemble these sheet metal rain-gutters parts together I use a better caulk than other Gutter Contractors, but I also use 12 to 17 fasteners on each corner, depending on  what sort of configuration or angle it has, which is at least triple the norm. The norm being just 4 to 5 fasteners on each corner.

Look closely at the gutters you have now to count the fasteners holding the corners together. If you have ever closely look at aircraft construction they use a lot of rivets very close together.

20. Double Sealing the Corners and Flattening the Floor Rivets:
I double sealed my joints: between the layers of overlapping metal, and again inside the gutter along the edges of metal and over the dozen rivets as well, after I had hammered then down flat inside the floor of the gutter. Then I use touch-up paint as a solvent to smooth the caulk again with my finger to seal spots I might have missed inside the gutter with the first attempt to spread the caulk. Then I spray it again over the caulk to help keep the Sun off the caulk for as long as that will last. I am anal like that.

To clarify; I do not worry about flattening the rivets in the front and back wall of the gutter. Just the 5 rivets across the floor seam. For an opposing force I use a heavy steel palm size weight used for auto dent work, which has a slight convex curve on one side. I hold it under the floor of the gutter with the rise centered under the rivet head I'm going to hammer down flat. This helps to makes it so there's less to catch debris on there in the corner. It also makes it a lot easier to spread the caulk over them to make sure they are fully sealed. I use that as motivation not to get lazy and neglect to flatten them down with each corner.

21. Better Outlets:
Theeoutlet size is a much more important detail than the size of your gutter. Even if your gutter was as large as a bath tub, yet the outlet is still that same small size it will clog just as quickly. These plus size elbows shown in this photo offer an outlet size which is 3X to 4X larger than what you most likely have now.outlet size is a much more important detail than the size of your gutter. Even if your gutter was as large as a bath tub, yet the outlet is still that same small size it will clog just as quickly. These plus size elbows shown in this photo offer an outlet size which is 3X to 4X larger than what you most likely have now.

Here is a close-up of a hidden hanger and screw, in an almond painted aluminum gutter I have 3 outlet options which are all larger than standard. Ever since my humble beginning of gutter replacement in 1993 I remain one of the only Gutter Contractors in the country to secure the first elbow under the gutter before installation of our gutters.I have 3 outlet options which are all larger than standard. Ever since my humble beginning of gutter replacement in 1993 I remain one of the only Gutter Contractors in the country to secure the first elbow under the gutter before installation of our gutters.

At the outlet drop we also bend the floor of the gutter down into the elbow to rivet through the side of that elbow in to that floor flange bent down in order to secure the elbow to the gutter floor. Also sealing it with caulk before and after assembly.  This leaves no obstruction in the floor of the gutter to catch debris, which would form a dam within the gutter.  This is consistent with the concept of water flow and leaves a 125% larger opening than a preformed outlet part used by other Gutter Contractors, of which many use a universal 2" round outlet, which restricts the size of their outlets to only half of what our standard 2X3 outlets are.

Even though it went against the norm of gutter construction, I (David Rich) was able to figure out how this is process is the only way gutter assembly should be done. We see too many elbows become dislodged from the gutter, so this should be the only way to do it, yet I seem to stand alone with practice. I challenge anyone to come up with a logical argument against this.

Here is a close-up of a hidden hanger and screw, in an almond painted aluminum gutter The larger 3X4 outlet option is accomplished by using an industrial size elbow right under the gutter. Then using a reducer we make to bring it back down to a standard size 2X3 downspout, since you do not need such a large downspout for the dead drop. This helps minimize the look and cost with no disadvantage. This one details is what LeafGuard ® hinges their no-clog warranty on. Although, they insist on the 2X larger downspout pipe all the way down your siding with a reducer there to be able to fit within your 3" round storm drain pipe. This offers no physical advantage, but they do get to over charge you for those huge ugly downspouts you'd rather not see on your house.

For an added cost I even have a Super Outlet  we make, which lets us cut open the whole floor of the gutter 9" wide for even better functionality if you want. Again I have yet to see any other local Gutter Contractor offer this sort of advantage.

If you're savvy enough you have wondered why all the debris from the gutter should be allowed to be driven down into your underground storm drains to jam them up. Our most popular feature why Homeowners hire us is the Leaf-Catcher we make that has a stainless steel 6X6 weave screen in it mounted at hip height for easy access. This allows you to manage this debris without getting up on a ladder; in the worst of weather when you finally notice you have a problem. This opening can also make gutter cleaning a breeze by covering that screen with cardboard or plastic temporarily, so you can just rinse out your gutters, driving all that debris and roof sand down into your downspouts, which you would never think to do before. Then even the smallest debris will pour out the mouth of the Leaf-Catcher, dumping on the ground, scoop it up, remove the screen covers, and your done. No more scooping out the stinky gutter gunk out of your gutters with your hands. Wouldn't that be nice?

22. Stronger Downspouts:
The striped corrugation of the downspouts I use (as seen above) adds a good deal of strength to the thin sheet metal, making them more dent resistant. As opposed to the plain square downspouts you probably have now. The old style round downspouts dent very easily and seem to show those dents in a more obvious way. They also look too much like sewer pipes, so I tent to go out of my way to discourage their use when asked.

23. Double Riveted Downspout Connections:
I double-rivet each downspout connection, so they are much less likely to fall apart.  I even rivet the first elbow onto the bottom of the gutter before it is installed, so it will not dislodge from the gutter.  I do leave one connection un-riveted right after that first elbow under the gutter, so the whole downspout can be removed for painting or other servicing that may be required.

Also see my 'Downspout Comparison' web page to see more about this issue.

24. Better Downspout Pipe Wall Mounts:
For DSP (downspout pipe) wall attachment I have been using a better pipe cleat on all my gutter jobs since 1996. In early 2005 I switched over to even larger stronger pipe cleats that are actually designed for a larger 3x4 DSP. These are fastened to the back of the DSP w/6 rivets, in stead of just 2 rivets of the smaller pipe cleat, so it has 3X better attachment and made with a thicker metal. These look nicer than the straps over the DSP most commonly seen, and do not allow for the DSP to slip down and become dislocated from the gutter, which is a common problem with ordinary gutter installations.  I also mount the DSP with #12 stainless steel screws for easy removal many decades later for painting or any other servicing needed with little to no damage. No nails! We even predrill the screw hole in the siding, so it is less apt to crack them.

Here is a close-up of a hidden hanger and screw, in an almond painted aluminum gutter Here is a close-up of a hidden hanger and screw, in an almond painted aluminum gutter

(instead of the straps nailed into the siding, which most Gutter Contractors have their installers do)

You might think 'isn't a larger DSP better?'. I can charge you more $ for the 2X larger DSP LeafGuard ® insists on using (and over charging for), but I have found them to be irrelevant to the function of a gutter system, so I use the reducer up high in stead of down low like they have to in order to fit in your storm drain pipes. Either way it's getting reduced, unless you happen to have the very rare 4" pipes under ground. Most Homeowners would like to see no DSP if that were possible, but they certainly have not like the appearance of those industrial sized DSP.

25. More Downspout Elbow Options and Custom Fabrication:
Most Gutter Contractors are too cheap to buy and stock any downspout elbows, and instruct their installers to simply cut the straight downspout pipes and fold them into shape.  In a debris free environment this will work fine, but it makes for a noisy downspout with an annoying dripping noise.  This also makes these downspouts terrible for clogging in most situation.  They also use the smaller plain rectangular downspouts instead of the stronger corrugated downspouts I use.  Those smooth downspouts they use also show dents more visibly than the corrugated type.

I stock over five times as many different types of downspout elbows and manufacture what I cannot buy to provide my clients with a more custom fit to their special house's needs, where most Gutter Contractors prefer to minimize their inventory down to only 2 different types of elbows; the most common 'A' elbow and the 'B' style shown here over the stone work.

I use the following elbow configurations:
1. 2X3 A elbows (most common)
2. 3X4 A elbows (industrial size for larger No-clog outlets)
3. 2X3 & 3X4 A offset
4. 1.5" double A offset
5. 2" double A offset
6. 3" double A offset
7. 2X3 B elbows (formed with the bends side ways)
8. 3X4 B elbows
9. B offset
10. double B offset
11. 2X3 funnel (to combine 2 downspout into one)
12. 3"x 4" funnel
13. 3"x 4" to 2"x 3" reducer
14. 2X3 Leaf-catcher
15. 3X4 Leaf-catcher
16. 3X4 upper to 2X3 lower Leaf-catcher
17. rain-chain outlets
18. copper rain-cups w/optional SS security cable
19. wall mounted rain-cups w/custom back splash plate
20. rain barrels for irrigation water harvesting during the Spring, Summer, and Fall Months, but easily adapts to a normal storm drain system for Winter months when no watering is done.
21. simple scupper
21. custom scupper designs:
http://copper-by-design.com/cw/scuppers.htm
22. custom built open top trays to deliver the rain water back to the siding in areas w/very little headroom (as seen below right):

Also see my 'Downspout Comparison' web page to see more about these options.

26. Drip-edge Flashing and other custom flashing needs:
Unlike most Gutter Contractors and even Roofers I have the facility to form most any custom heavy gauge aluminum or copper flashing for the many houses that were roofed improperly.  Drip-edge flashing makes sure the water transition from the roof shingle into the rain-gutter properly, so it does not soak under the roofing shingles to rot out the roof deck plywood. Also, to form fascia board covers and many other unique applications, like how I also make matching custom diagonal rake edge board covers to hide old flaking paint and cracked boards with ugly knots in them, which is usually cheaper than to have a Painter come strip the wood and repaint.

27. Free Color Choices:Here is a close-up of a hidden hanger and screw, in an almond painted aluminum gutter
As you may have run into most Gutter Contractors compel Homeowners to accept either a high gloss white or a dark satin brown color, but I feel it should be a matter of customer service to offer all these colors of pre-painted aluminum gutter parts that would look best on your house, so I do not charge extra for any of these color choices.  I would rather you are happy with the results when I am finished, so these new gutters look like they were meant to go with your house. Not a discounted after thought.

This chart is just to give you a good idea of what colors are available. There are 30 color chips on this chart. The colors shown here are a close approximation. Your monitor may show them differently and they are likely to print out much different than the colors shown on your monitor, so these colors shown here are not to be relied on for an exact match. If you need one of these color charts mailed to you for an exact match-up let me know and I will get you a set.

The new gutters can be painted to match your trim, but the paint used on this high quality aluminum sheet metal is a baked-on enamel finish, so it is better than any paint that could be put over them.

You can read more on this issue and concerns at http://dmr-gutters.com/ag/colors.htm

28. Responsive to Calls & E-mails:
I am very reachable by cell phone at most all hours of the day to respond toyourrquestions. I may need to call you back if I'm up on a ladder with my hands full or driving in order to be able to write down your information, but I do not screens calls through my answering machine, like many other Gutter Contractors will. I check my e-mail at least twice a day, in the morning and in the evening. I respond to most (non-spam) e-mail within 24 hours.  If you have not received my reply soon, please call to confirm I got it. In this day of horrid spam troubles, it could have gotten dropped in the automated filtering system.soon, please call to confirm I got it. In this day of horrid spam troubles, it could have gotten dropped in the automated filtering system.

29. Referrals and Awards:
As shown below for a decade I added a post card in my standard hand-outs to prospective clients that was stamped and addressed to the BBB in Down Town Portland Oregon (before they moved to LO). I no longer do this, since most reviews are on-line these days. It asked for an honest review of my work, or even my sales pitch.  If during a job I felt things were not going well with a Client all I had to do is remember this post card, and how I cannot afford one negative comment.  Suddenly everything seems to go smoothly again, since it may not betheeClient that needs to make the adjustment.  It is my responsibility.  That's just good business.  That's just good business.


You can click on these to read more about this and read referrals that were sent in

30. Honesty in the Final Cost:
Another aspect of my business practice that seems to stand alone is how after I finish a job I of course would have the exact measurements of what was needed to complete that project.  For the last 2 decades I have been giving my clients a discounted final price that reflects only what remained on their house.  In my travels, I have yet to hear of another Contractor who does this.  I recalculate the measurements of the parts used on my jobs down to the 1/4", compared to the original bid price in order to re-adjust the final cost to my clients.  This adjusted price is almost always less money than the original bid, unless more work was needed than the original contract, where we needed to re-negotiated the contract.  An honesty you will be hard pressed to find elsewhere in any industry!

31. Ethical Responsibility
My work is rivaled by no one, because of my sense of ethical responsibility.  As wrote on my Homepage: If I am not honorable with those of my association, be it business or personal, I have no right to even hope for honesty and reliability in others, let alone expect it' is a motto I strive to live by and have written web pages on this issue. It is even more logical than the Golden Rule and needs no Dogma to give it credence. We need to create the world we hope to live in, regardless of what we may get in return.

No one's perfect, but I tend to go beyond the call of duty to provide quality workmanship for my clients. Other Gutter Contractors see Building Code as a thorn in their side, yet it was meant to be just a guild as the least a Contractor can get away with. Not a statement of how the work is suppose to be done. They may be able to crack out several gutter replacement a day, but I typically spend a week or more on the average gutter job.  You can see the 300+ photos and description of a large copper gutter job I did in late 2004 on a house out in gutter job.  You can see the 300+ photos and description of a large copper gutter job I did in late 2004 on a house out in Forest Grove for the Kistlers that took me a month of full time work to complete properly.

32. Low Minimum Charge:
I require a minimum charge of $100 for doing small jobs not to high up, or $200 minimum if it requires my big 32' ladder for 2 story work. I am happy to do some extra work to bring the value to that $ mark when there was not a lot you were needing me to take care of.  There is a $250 minimum charge if it requires my largest 36' ladder.  This is a shame that I need to even charge that much, but this is a common practice, and do I have a substantial overhead to consider and liability if something were to go wrong.

As stated above, I am willing to do other improvements that would add-up to that minimum charge, but you need to have a good idea of what else you might want me to do, as I may not have those other parts with me at the time.

33. Courtesy Gutter Cleaning:
If at the time of the bid you are prepared to put down the 1/3 deposit required to schedule in your project I'm willing to clear out your gutters to help tide you over for the months it may take me to get to your replacement. Please let me know if that is a possibility, so I know to have my ladders with me. If not I'll need to make another trip out to your place. That's the extent of my 'high pressure sales' tactic, yet it not something I tend to push, so this may be the only place you hear of it, since I'm not one to use such tactics to make a quick sale.

.

.

The Comparison to My No-clog Gutter System
(click on the image below to go to that web page)

Above is an actual LEAFGUARD® gutter cross section profile that I have to show clients the clear difference

"Quality and service is not expensive,
it's priceless!"

E-mail DMR Gutters
for a free no-obligation estimate, for the
finest in rain management.
.as long as you are local to the Portland Oregon area

 

Other Helpful Roofing Information
For some valuable advice with regards to roofing and rain management issues check out my:

(a) Gutter Debris Protection Options
(b) Roofing Quality Standards
(c) Chimney Flashing
(d) Moss Control & Treatment

web pages for answers and solutions that could save you thousands of $ and a great deal of anguish.

If you do find this information very helpful, feel free to send us a $ tip for the assistance I so freely have published on the web here for your benefit, like you might tip a waitress.  Heck, send us a gift certificate for a candle lit dinner for two. <LOL>

 

.

Below is a photo of my
Better Business Bureau's
NW Business Integrity Award
for the year 1998

1999 Better Business Award

I was also a 1997 finalist for this same award. See my referral web page to see how I managed to be honored with this special award

 

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dmr-gutters.com.

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